But then it would cost even more to upgrade them. Personnally, no matter
what kind of car I own, I'll have to modify it atleast somewhat.
The E30 M3: SuperSprint Exhaust and header with dual DTM tips, Dinan or
Turner Chip,cams, etc etc 17" TSW Hock R's
Audi: Depends which one but probably BBS Rx 's or RC's, or ABT's in a 17 or
18". And more of the same mods. Upgraded turbo, splitter etc etc
I really need to win the Lotto!! Then I'd need a small shack of a house and
a huge Dealership sized garage, and it would be pristine.
Fred 92 GLI 16V 2035
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Various engine building questions...
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 13:47:24 EST
Ben, I think that if I had that kind of expendable income, I would be
driving
an Audi or an E30 M3. As would most of the rest of us.
-Dave
'91 GTX 16V
In a message dated 2/10/00 9:50:25 AM Eastern Standard Time, [email protected]
writes:
> > From: "vw racer" <[email protected]>
> >
> > spend $100
> > at a machine shop and have them balance all bottom-end parts. It's
worth
> it
> > for the peice of mind.
>
> more than that too...the engine will be smoother, and if things are
> lightened a bit, youll see a little bump in power too.
>
> > I also recommend using ARP rod-bolts, ARP main bolts
> > arent really worth it on a VW, since they rarely fail.
>
> agreed on the main bolts. unless you are a racer and are constantly
> pulling the head off the engine, stock stretch bolts are the way to go.
> besides the fact that they are WAY cheaper and dont have to be
> retightened, they will hold the head down with a more consistent
tension
> at each bolt. (which, if you are covering all bases, makes it less
> likely to bolw the gasket down the road)
>
> as for the swap...change the motormounts. there is *no* easier time.
> the front subframe bushings too...theyre like 1.50 a piece, and can
make
> a huge difference. a few other suggestions: change the clutch too. a
> year is a year, and theyre only $110 for the whole clutch kit. get the
> flywheel lightened and resurfaced. flip and rebuild your CV's. get
> your injectors cleaned/flowed. (then replace, if necessary) and
> replace all the injector seals and lower seats too. umm...obviously
> stuff like belts and tensioner. radiator hoses (at least the two main
> ones) suspension bushings/bearings like the strut and control arms.
> (again, no better time) might as well replace the rear ones while
youre
> at it...and hell, why not the wheelbearings too. fronts are 20 bucks a
> pop and rears are ~10 a side. brakes? not a bad idea. what do you
> have planned for the head? at the very least, get it checked for
> warpage. shave off a little if you want. (not too much though...)
> getting it ported wouldnt be a bad idead either. if you have the
money.
> but remember, there *are* plenty of people that know how to port a 16v
> head...no need to spend 1000+ on it...
>
> i forget if i did anything i didnt mention...
>
> oh...when youre bored, you can clean things up and make them look nice.
> my old car's manifold was in pretty sad shape, so one night i painted
it
> black (and i painted the valve cover aluminum) and it looks (or looked,
> as it were) good as new, with a little twist. clean everything from
the
> air flow plate to threottle body to the exhaust manifold with carb
> cleaner/engine degreaser and a wire/nylon brush. i actually got little
> attachments that i put on my drill, so i cleaned out my manifolds,
> combustion chambers, and ports real good.
>
> ben randolph
> 92 16v gti
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