You hit the nail on the head. Tim was a self righteous "my way or the
highway" kind of guy. He basically sunk his own ship because of that
attitude.
The mechanic you're thinking of was Chris Lagatuta. He ended up leaving ND
and opened his own shop down in San Jose called Autowerkstat. Has far as I
know, he's still in business.

~Holland
On Mar 1, 2016 3:05 PM, "Les Noriel" <[email protected]> wrote:

> My brother Rodney worked there but I don't remember which years. I
> remember when they tried selling all of the Calloway Turbo inventory. Then
> he sold it and new owners who mismanaged it into insolvency.
>
> Tim was an a$$ to me on several occasions. Funny how that works. I can
> imagine how he treated his employees. I'd heard the stories.
>
> He had one mechanic who was excellent but I'd forgotten his name.
> On Mar 1, 2016 5:55 PM, "Holland Phillips" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> I actually worked at New Dimensions for a while myself. What did your
>> brother do while working there? I don't recall someone with your last name.
>> What is his first? I was there 2000 - 2001, and did sales. Tim was a
>> difficult guy to work for, at least for me, even though I was the most
>> successful sales person while there. Still good memories...
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Mar 1, 2016 14:46, "Les Noriel" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Good to know.
>>>
>>> My brother worked for New Dimensions for awhile. I remember the car
>>> shows. I bought my TEC 2RS glader for my corrado from Tim.
>>> On Mar 1, 2016 3:25 PM, "Holland Phillips" <[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> The fuel pumps can easily be damaged just by running the car out of
>>>> fuel. One time, I was driving home from work, and noticed the fuel gauge
>>>> was reading very close to empty. I decided I would easily make it home, and
>>>> planned on getting gas on the way to work the next day. But when I started
>>>> the car the next morning, the gauge now read a little higher, so I assumed
>>>> I would easily make it to work, and would get fuel at lunch. I Made it
>>>> almost to work when the car died. The Fuel gauge was still reading above
>>>> the last line, so I didn't believe I was actually out of gas. So I
>>>> attempted to restart the car for a few minutes. Big mistake. I called AAA
>>>> and they brought a couple of gallons of gas. Car wouldn't start. I had it
>>>> towed to the shop where I had work done on the car when I didn't have time
>>>> to do it myself (New Dimensions - remember them?). Turned out I had fried
>>>> both pumps because they overheated since they are intended to be cooled by
>>>> the fuel. About $500 later, I had learned a very expensive lesson.
>>>>
>>>> ~Holland
>>>> On Mar 1, 2016 11:58, "Larry Velez" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Good point on the fueling system.   Bad gas (Ethanol is the devil!),
>>>>> clogged fuel filter, clogged fuel lines, failing fuel pump(s) or failing
>>>>> injectors could definitely contribute to running issues – I would imagine.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> -Larry
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> *From:* [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] *On
>>>>> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
>>>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 1:42 PM
>>>>> *To:* [email protected]
>>>>> *Subject:* RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be
>>>>> contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here 
>>>>> is
>>>>> probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy additives
>>>>> that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life.
>>>>> An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or
>>>>> transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The
>>>>> easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel
>>>>> distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should
>>>>> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates 
>>>>> at
>>>>> around 50psi, give or take.
>>>>> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that
>>>>> looks correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with.
>>>>>
>>>>> ~Holland
>>>>>
>>>>> On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding
>>>>> injectors of all ages:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> https://www.injector.com/
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> -Larry
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> *From:* [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] *On
>>>>> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
>>>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
>>>>> *To:* [email protected]
>>>>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression
>>>>> test. If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe
>>>>> look at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find
>>>>> some used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you
>>>>> could swap them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a
>>>>> couple of companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic
>>>>> injectors. I had mine done by Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, so
>>>>> I don't know if they're still in business. They could perform just testing
>>>>> to check for flow and pattern.
>>>>> Beyond that, I just don't know.
>>>>>
>>>>> ~Holland
>>>>>
>>>>> On Feb 29, 2016 18:21, "Chad Rebuck" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> The key in the cam gear is only there for the alignment until the bolt
>>>>> is tightened. It doesn't really hold the cam gear in place once the bolt 
>>>>> is
>>>>> tightened.  Same for the crank pulley too.  The key can break if the bolt
>>>>> gets loose enough for it to turn.
>>>>>
>>>>> I'm just curious how the engine sounds as you said it ran smoother for
>>>>> a short while when you opened up the throttle.
>>>>>
>>>>> I'm about out of ideas.  If you take it to a shop the first thing
>>>>> they're going to do is check the timing again and check the compression I
>>>>> bet.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Feb 29, 2016 9:05 PM, "damac2004" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> im afraid to run this car for long but what would be better, a video
>>>>> from the engine bay or tailpipe?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> i didn't change the plug order, etc. when doing all this work, just
>>>>> popped the distributor off and layed it in engine bay with battery out.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> the cam i took off the car did have the cam gear tooth broken but it
>>>>> didn't move based on how the keyway lined up, is that surprising?  i 
>>>>> bought
>>>>> another cam pulley off a vortex member and he sold it to me the exact same
>>>>> way and told me every one he has taken off came the same way?  i thought
>>>>> that was nuts but have seen through forums searching it has happened to
>>>>> others.  i got a new cam pulley while doing all this work and its still
>>>>> fine.  and i have to assume the crank is fine as well since it was good
>>>>> running and all the marks are lining up correctly still.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Monday, February 29, 2016 at 5:56:38 PM UTC-8, chadrebuck wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Also check that the cam sprocket is located in the right place on the
>>>>> cam. If the tooth broke off of the cam gear then it could rotate causing
>>>>> the timing to be incorrect. Did you mention that the cam sprocket had a
>>>>> broken locating tooth?
>>>>>
>>>>> On Feb 29, 2016 7:47 PM, "Chad Rebuck" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Changing the cams out will be a waste of time. What did you do to
>>>>> verify the spark plug wire order? Can you take a video of how the car is
>>>>> running?
>>>>>
>>>>> On Feb 29, 2016 7:39 PM, "damac2004" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> i put the techtronics chip back in and put the older throttle body
>>>>> back in with no changes in how the car is acting.  i also checked grounds
>>>>> and ran some extras to the bundle on head, etc. just in case.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> my issues make for a useless car, no way it could be driven.  so my
>>>>> problems seem way beyond the little tuning people do to get their cars
>>>>> running right.  this car ran and drove when i got it with very old and 
>>>>> worn
>>>>> injector seals and numerous vacuum lines with holes in it. it ran its best
>>>>> when hot and on the throttle never gave out on me or died. although it had
>>>>> goofy issues with starting consistently and idling a little
>>>>> high/rough/inconsistent at times.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> and i see people mention 02 sensors and cts making for a rough running
>>>>> car possibly but again this is way worse than that.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> i'm stuck so tomorrow i am going to put the old cams, etc. back on and
>>>>> cross my fingers.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Saturday, February 27, 2016 at 8:41:59 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Since the Mk 2 cars were all pre OBD, they had only one O2 sensor
>>>>> which was mounted before the cat. So the ECU never knew if the cat even
>>>>> existed or was functioning properly. Now that I think about it, if the O2
>>>>> sensor has no output, or was not connected, the ECU will go into "safe
>>>>> mode", which is full rich. Hence your poor fuel mileage. I also recalled
>>>>> that the O2 sensor on the Motronic cars is a three wire type, which means
>>>>> it has a heater, so its output will become valid more quickly in order to
>>>>> reduce emissions. All this is bringing back memories of all the 16V trivia
>>>>> I acquired over the years. 😐
>>>>>
>>>>> ~Holland
>>>>>
>>>>> On Feb 27, 2016 20:00, "damac2004" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> i could test compression but it it did drive fine before i tore it all
>>>>> apart, after this incident.
>>>>>
>>>>> this car had no cat so 02 sensor was laying underneath airbox this
>>>>> whole time :).
>>>>>
>>>>> i thought the car stunk and i got bad mileage but this car was fun to
>>>>> drive. i was beating on itand it pulled when i stomped on it all the time
>>>>>
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