Good to know.

My brother worked for New Dimensions for awhile. I remember the car shows.
I bought my TEC 2RS glader for my corrado from Tim.
On Mar 1, 2016 3:25 PM, "Holland Phillips" <[email protected]>
wrote:

> The fuel pumps can easily be damaged just by running the car out of fuel.
> One time, I was driving home from work, and noticed the fuel gauge was
> reading very close to empty. I decided I would easily make it home, and
> planned on getting gas on the way to work the next day. But when I started
> the car the next morning, the gauge now read a little higher, so I assumed
> I would easily make it to work, and would get fuel at lunch. I Made it
> almost to work when the car died. The Fuel gauge was still reading above
> the last line, so I didn't believe I was actually out of gas. So I
> attempted to restart the car for a few minutes. Big mistake. I called AAA
> and they brought a couple of gallons of gas. Car wouldn't start. I had it
> towed to the shop where I had work done on the car when I didn't have time
> to do it myself (New Dimensions - remember them?). Turned out I had fried
> both pumps because they overheated since they are intended to be cooled by
> the fuel. About $500 later, I had learned a very expensive lesson.
>
> ~Holland
> On Mar 1, 2016 11:58, "Larry Velez" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Good point on the fueling system.   Bad gas (Ethanol is the devil!),
>> clogged fuel filter, clogged fuel lines, failing fuel pump(s) or failing
>> injectors could definitely contribute to running issues – I would imagine.
>>
>>
>>
>> -Larry
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] *On
>> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 1:42 PM
>> *To:* [email protected]
>> *Subject:* RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>
>>
>>
>> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be
>> contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here is
>> probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy additives
>> that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life.
>> An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or
>> transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The
>> easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel
>> distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should
>> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at
>> around 50psi, give or take.
>> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks
>> correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with.
>>
>> ~Holland
>>
>> On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding
>> injectors of all ages:
>>
>>
>>
>> https://www.injector.com/
>>
>>
>>
>> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/
>>
>>
>>
>> -Larry
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] *On
>> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
>> *To:* [email protected]
>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>
>>
>>
>> I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test.
>> If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look
>> at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find some
>> used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you could
>> swap them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a couple
>> of companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic injectors. I
>> had mine done by Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, so I don't know
>> if they're still in business. They could perform just testing to check for
>> flow and pattern.
>> Beyond that, I just don't know.
>>
>> ~Holland
>>
>> On Feb 29, 2016 18:21, "Chad Rebuck" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> The key in the cam gear is only there for the alignment until the bolt is
>> tightened. It doesn't really hold the cam gear in place once the bolt is
>> tightened.  Same for the crank pulley too.  The key can break if the bolt
>> gets loose enough for it to turn.
>>
>> I'm just curious how the engine sounds as you said it ran smoother for a
>> short while when you opened up the throttle.
>>
>> I'm about out of ideas.  If you take it to a shop the first thing they're
>> going to do is check the timing again and check the compression I bet.
>>
>> On Feb 29, 2016 9:05 PM, "damac2004" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> im afraid to run this car for long but what would be better, a video from
>> the engine bay or tailpipe?
>>
>>
>>
>> i didn't change the plug order, etc. when doing all this work, just
>> popped the distributor off and layed it in engine bay with battery out.
>>
>>
>>
>> the cam i took off the car did have the cam gear tooth broken but it
>> didn't move based on how the keyway lined up, is that surprising?  i bought
>> another cam pulley off a vortex member and he sold it to me the exact same
>> way and told me every one he has taken off came the same way?  i thought
>> that was nuts but have seen through forums searching it has happened to
>> others.  i got a new cam pulley while doing all this work and its still
>> fine.  and i have to assume the crank is fine as well since it was good
>> running and all the marks are lining up correctly still.
>>
>> On Monday, February 29, 2016 at 5:56:38 PM UTC-8, chadrebuck wrote:
>>
>> Also check that the cam sprocket is located in the right place on the
>> cam. If the tooth broke off of the cam gear then it could rotate causing
>> the timing to be incorrect. Did you mention that the cam sprocket had a
>> broken locating tooth?
>>
>> On Feb 29, 2016 7:47 PM, "Chad Rebuck" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> Changing the cams out will be a waste of time. What did you do to verify
>> the spark plug wire order? Can you take a video of how the car is running?
>>
>> On Feb 29, 2016 7:39 PM, "damac2004" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> i put the techtronics chip back in and put the older throttle body back
>> in with no changes in how the car is acting.  i also checked grounds and
>> ran some extras to the bundle on head, etc. just in case.
>>
>>
>>
>> my issues make for a useless car, no way it could be driven.  so my
>> problems seem way beyond the little tuning people do to get their cars
>> running right.  this car ran and drove when i got it with very old and worn
>> injector seals and numerous vacuum lines with holes in it. it ran its best
>> when hot and on the throttle never gave out on me or died. although it had
>> goofy issues with starting consistently and idling a little
>> high/rough/inconsistent at times.
>>
>>
>>
>> and i see people mention 02 sensors and cts making for a rough running
>> car possibly but again this is way worse than that.
>>
>>
>>
>> i'm stuck so tomorrow i am going to put the old cams, etc. back on and
>> cross my fingers.
>>
>> On Saturday, February 27, 2016 at 8:41:59 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>
>> Since the Mk 2 cars were all pre OBD, they had only one O2 sensor which
>> was mounted before the cat. So the ECU never knew if the cat even existed
>> or was functioning properly. Now that I think about it, if the O2 sensor
>> has no output, or was not connected, the ECU will go into "safe mode",
>> which is full rich. Hence your poor fuel mileage. I also recalled that the
>> O2 sensor on the Motronic cars is a three wire type, which means it has a
>> heater, so its output will become valid more quickly in order to reduce
>> emissions. All this is bringing back memories of all the 16V trivia I
>> acquired over the years. 😐
>>
>> ~Holland
>>
>> On Feb 27, 2016 20:00, "damac2004" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> i could test compression but it it did drive fine before i tore it all
>> apart, after this incident.
>>
>> this car had no cat so 02 sensor was laying underneath airbox this whole
>> time :).
>>
>> i thought the car stunk and i got bad mileage but this car was fun to
>> drive. i was beating on itand it pulled when i stomped on it all the time
>>
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