i could just tape the loom up where the wires are cut. i have searched vortex forums and it seems allot of people run without that plug sensor but i can't find a definate on what the computer actually does.
i don't know if its because im living in a no smog small county or what, but i have had trouble already with the places in town. i think i will have to venture further away. one told me i needed to get the check engine light fixed because he couldn't find it and luckily he wouldn't even charge me or start the test. i told him what the book said and it being currently smogged. next place told me i need to pay for smog and if it fails they will fix it and charge me nothing on a retest. so they won't do a pre test? i specifically told them what i wanted to do and how im dealing with this piece of crap. i am guessing the shops can do what they want? the places in town don't even offer free retesting. On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 7:56:27 PM UTC-7, hollandphillips wrote: > > I've had concerns about the wires you found cut since you mentioned them. > In CA, on pre OBD cars, they look for hardware and check tail pipe. I had a > Euro intake on my car, and the port for the EYE valve wasn't machined, so I > just bolted the valve on and ran the wire back into the harness without > connecting it, and they never caught it. Those cut wires may be for the > reference sensor, and if the smog Nazis see them, they may fail you on that > alone. Plus, without a functioning reference sensor, I doubt the car will > run correctly, and that may be the reason your timing is jumping around. > Like I said before, at this point, I would find a smog station that offers > free retests and go for it. They will tell you what is not correct if it > fails. > > ~Holland > On Mar 31, 2016 19:27, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net <javascript:>> > wrote: > > holy cow i hope to have a success story soon but i am not quite there yet > for smog. i went ahead and checked the codes and found i got an egr > error, igntion reference sender and knock sensor #1 bad wiring or sender. > > somebody told me i don't have a california ecu, does anybody know if all > ecu's would throw that egr even if on a non california car? i don't think > i have to worry about it, just wondering. > > on the knock sensor both of mine are chipped up where the sensor bolts in, > one of them has no covering on the whole run of wire, just metal strands. > just got a couple bosch new ones for cheap on ebay so will install those. > > the last one for the igntion reference sender brings up an issue i didn't > know i had. my car has no sensor on #4 wire and i found no connector in my > harness but there is a run of 3 wires that was cut off. does anybody know > if this will effect how the computer runs things? i have read it both ways > searching. i never noticed a problem with the car before i touched it > except it was stinky and didn't get good mileage. i don't even care about > this as long as i pass smog. > > if i read right i also believe a car can have a 2 degree deviation from > the stock timing specs so i think i might just take a chance with this car > and set it as best as i can, even though the timing light jumps around. i > have talked with numerous people on each side of this issue as well. some > said their marks wandered, some said they don't. hate to throw money at > this car if i don't have to, but would enjoy making it right for the next > guy when i get rid of it :) > > On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 5:52:49 PM UTC-7, hollandphillips wrote: > > Two knock sensors means 2.0/9A block. > On the timing issue, there is something that needs to be disconnected > prior to using a timing light. I can't remember what exactly it is, but I > think it's a vacuum line somewhere. Again, that information is in the > Bentley. Once the whatever is disconnected, the timing should be steady > when viewed with the timing light. > The timing advance on Motronic cars is controlled by the ECU, which is why > initial setting of the timing requires disconnecting whatever it is the > Bentley tells you. They do connect a timing sensor to the number one > cylinder spark plug lead when running an emissions test in California. > Don't know if it's just for reference to the machine, or if they can > actually fail you if it's out of spec. > > ~Holland > On Mar 24, 2016 17:04, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: > > ok so ground showed no continuity to that sensor wire. it does with pin 7 > i believe on the ecu connector, so i guess i am good. i kept getting > confused because people were talking about an insulated wire and im > thinking a nasty cable like for tv. when looking these guys over as is, > they don't seem special looking to me. > > also i looked over the car again and i do have 2 knock sensors. they are > on the front of the block close to each, closer to cylinder #1. they each > attach to a harness connector that goes into the loom and to the ecu. so > if i remember right people said 1.8 blocks don't have 2? yet i couldn't > fit the larger im shaft gear into this block that mates to the oil pump it > had the smaller block off plate hole? so still not sure what i have. in > included a picture down below. hopefully i won't need to care. > > here is a link to video of my first cold startup. for some reason it > took like 5 times to start like there was no gas, fuel pump was making > noise. then it started right up. can anybody tell if it sounds ok? i am > now having an issue with timing the car. i tried cold and after a warmup > cycle and i cannot get the pointer to stay still with the light on? it > kind of lines up with the diamond and then it will shoot off a little bit > off one way or the other. if i go further either way from where it is now, > when it shoots off it tends to go in that direction more. i tried > connecting the lead near the distributor cap and at the head. it seems to > like this spot the best but im not sure how accurate it is. im wondering > what impact this could have on smog if im a little off. also not sure if > this means my car is having troubles or if my timing light is messed up. > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GB9yXn61pS8 > > > <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ld5z8T1qMBU/VvSAHUYZQFI/AAAAAAAAAOw/TN6T8t9LDnYh-Ek6Nwhyij9PhtpIeLAEQ/s1600/IMG_0583.JPG> > > > > > On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 10:32:11 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote: > > I think that your loom is good, I wouldn’t mess with it anymore. The > Bentley shows a circle around the signal wire where that ground meets the > O2 signal wire instead of a splice and that’s what you have. Maybe check > to be sure that there’s no continuity between the ground and the O2 signal > spade connector. > > > On Mar 24, 2016, at 10:48 AM, Holland Phillips <holland...@gmail.com> > wrote: > > The Motronic ECU does store codes. Since the OBD1 spec didn't go into > effect until '95, code readers don't work on these cars. Connecting two > leads to the proper positions of the connectors under the shifter boot and > connecting a momentary switch to the other ends of the two leads, by using > the switch to short the leads for a few seconds, the codes are shown by the > check engine light flashing in various sequences. The Bentley explains all > this and has a chart showing what the various codes indicate. I don't > remember exactly where in the Bentley this procedure is, but it's in there > somewhere. > > ~Holland > On Mar 24, 2016 1:17 AM, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: > > sorry just to make sure we are on the same page. you are saying the 02 > sensor black connector is going into the loom to the ecu. and the ground > wire attached to the firewall is loose and surrounding the 02 sensor wire > along the same path? i am paranoid and want to see for myself and am > tempted to cut further upstream to see. > > i thought i read about the codes and bought a cord on ebay to convert from > a little plug underneath the shifter boot i believe that goes to an obd > reader? i will try it if i read right after i get the sucker going, had to > rewire the main power and grounds. many wires have fallen to pieces just > from touching them. scary stuff now that i look closer. > > On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 12:40:03 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote: > > The picture looks just like what I thought it would, the signal wire is > the one with the connector, the one going to the ground is the shield. I > think that you're good to go. > I would have shown you my loom, but it's very different and I thought it'd > make things more confusing. > > ... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MK2-16v" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/cc7f2f9c-2d86-4fcc-8b70-96fcb5a51a70%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
