no smog is required except on vehicle transfer into this county. so i guess the same 90 day window applies, the car i got passed about 5 months before i got it and had a long list of other passes in california.
sadly i have been taken advantage of more than once by mechanics shops so i will have to do some research. i have had the same problems with doctors it can be a sad selfish world. im sure there is a good shop out there, i will just have to poke around i guess and travel more. and maybe its better i go to a non repair station and insist on the pretest. On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 7:55:11 AM UTC-7, hollandphillips wrote: > > I'm confused. You just said you live in a small no smog county? I know > there used to be some counties in California that didn't require bi annual > smog tests, like Calaveras County. If you live in one of those counties, > why do you have to get a smog, or have the laws changed? And I think pre > testing is offered at the discretion of each smog station, or maybe it's > only offered by the test only stations. Since the test equipment is > connected directly to the DMV, the technician has to know how to run a pre > test without the results being automatically sent to the DMV. I used to > have to "buy" smogs for a couple of my vehicles because the were illegally > modified for performance purposes. Back in the '90's, it would cost me > about $50, but once they came out with the test equipment that's connected > to the DMV, most of the guys that would do that either got busted, or quit > doing it. The last time I had to get an illegal smog, back in 2012, it cost > me $250, and they had to use a "clean" vehicle to run the test. It was all > very covert, and the guy was extremely paranoid and nervous about doing it. > This was in Santa Clara County. > > ~Holland > On Mar 31, 2016 11:21 PM, "damac2004" <[email protected] <javascript:>> > wrote: > > i could just tape the loom up where the wires are cut. i have searched > vortex forums and it seems allot of people run without that plug sensor but > i can't find a definate on what the computer actually does. > > i don't know if its because im living in a no smog small county or what, > but i have had trouble already with the places in town. i think i will > have to venture further away. one told me i needed to get the check engine > light fixed because he couldn't find it and luckily he wouldn't even charge > me or start the test. i told him what the book said and it being currently > smogged. next place told me i need to pay for smog and if it fails they > will fix it and charge me nothing on a retest. so they won't do a pre > test? i specifically told them what i wanted to do and how im dealing with > this piece of crap. i am guessing the shops can do what they want? the > places in town don't even offer free retesting. > > > On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 7:56:27 PM UTC-7, hollandphillips wrote: > > I've had concerns about the wires you found cut since you mentioned them. > In CA, on pre OBD cars, they look for hardware and check tail pipe. I had a > Euro intake on my car, and the port for the EYE valve wasn't machined, so I > just bolted the valve on and ran the wire back into the harness without > connecting it, and they never caught it. Those cut wires may be for the > reference sensor, and if the smog Nazis see them, they may fail you on that > alone. Plus, without a functioning reference sensor, I doubt the car will > run correctly, and that may be the reason your timing is jumping around. > Like I said before, at this point, I would find a smog station that offers > free retests and go for it. They will tell you what is not correct if it > fails. > > ~Holland > On Mar 31, 2016 19:27, "damac2004" <[email protected]> wrote: > > holy cow i hope to have a success story soon but i am not quite there yet > for smog. i went ahead and checked the codes and found i got an egr > error, igntion reference sender and knock sensor #1 bad wiring or sender. > > somebody told me i don't have a california ecu, does anybody know if all > ecu's would throw that egr even if on a non california car? i don't think > i have to worry about it, just wondering. > > on the knock sensor both of mine are chipped up where the sensor bolts in, > one of them has no covering on the whole run of wire, just metal strands. > just got a couple bosch new ones for cheap on ebay so will install those. > > the last one for the igntion reference sender brings up an issue i didn't > know i had. my car has no sensor on #4 wire and i found no connector in my > harness but there is a run of 3 wires that was cut off. does anybody know > if this will effect how the computer runs things? i have read it both ways > searching. i never noticed a problem with the car before i touched it > except it was stinky and didn't get good mileage. i don't even care about > this as long as i pass smog. > > if i read right i also believe a car can have a 2 degree deviation from > the stock timing specs so i think i might just take a chance with this car > and set it as best as i can, even though the timing light jumps around. i > have talked with numerous people on each side of this issue as well. some > said their marks wandered, some said they don't. hate to throw money at > this car if i don't have to, but would enjoy making it right for the next > guy when i get rid of it :) > > On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 5:52:49 PM UTC-7, hollandphillips wrote: > > Two knock sensors means 2.0/9A block. > On the timing issue, there is something that needs to be disconnected > prior to using a timing light. I can't remember what exactly it is, but I > think it's a vacuum line somewhere. Again, that information is in the > Bentley. Once the whatever is disconnected, the timing should be steady > when viewed with the timing light. > The timing advance on Motronic cars is controlled by the ECU, which is why > initial setting of the timing requires disconnecting whatever it is the > Bentley tells you. They do connect a timing sensor to the number one > cylinder spark plug lead when running an emissions test in California. > Don't know if it's just for reference to the machine, or if they can > actually fail you if it's out of spec. > > ~Holland > On Mar 24, 2016 17:04, "damac2004" <[email protected]> wrote: > > ok so ground showed no continuity to that sensor wire. it does with pin 7 > i believe on the ecu connector, so i guess i am good. i kept getting > confused because people were talking about an insulated wire and im > thinking a nasty cable like for tv. when looking these guys over as is, > they don't seem special looking to me. > > also i looked over the car again and i do have 2 knock sensors. they are > on the front of the block close to each, closer to cylinder #1. they each > attach to a harness connector that goes into the loom and > > ... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MK2-16v" group. 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