You gotta cap those Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 16, 2016, at 9:51 PM, damac2004 <[email protected]> wrote: > > sorry i think the egr system attaches to the holes i am talking about. and i > just dumped water down the runners and confirmed that the 2 big holes are > open to the intake runners. so one picture is the euro intake and the holes > are so open you can look and see through. stock manifold isn't like that but > those holes are linked and channel. > > > > > > > > > > >> On Wednesday, March 16, 2016 at 8:05:45 PM UTC-7, chadrebuck wrote: >> I'm not following the description too well but any opening in the intake >> manifold that allows air to bypass the air meter and fuel distributor is no >> good. You able to send any picture? >> >>> On Mar 16, 2016 10:56 PM, "damac2004" <[email protected]> wrote: >>> oh boy i am feeling stupid and think i have found the smoking gun here. >>> >>> is it possible that having 2 open holes on the back of the intake manifold >>> made the car act this way? >>> >>> this is not a california chasis so no egr stuff. when i pulled the euro >>> manifold one hole had a bolt stuck through it with rtv and another hole was >>> held by bolts and gasket. >>> >>> when i was transferring everything over to the stock manifold i remember >>> poking down the hole with brake cleaner hose and hit what i thought was >>> solid wall on each. at the time never seeing egr stuff assumed it maybe >>> would be drilled out for a car that needed that hardware. >>> >>> i had filled the holes up with brake cleaner with that side up and don't >>> think i paid close enough attention so this whole time it was installed on >>> the car like that. >>> >>> tonight as i went to transfer the old parts back on as my last hope effort >>> i noticed some leakage when spraying brake cleaner and a light bulb went >>> off. so with those holes up if i spray one hole it fills the other hole >>> up. if you leave the manifold sit the level of fluid just sits there. >>> when i went to tilt sideways one way nothing happened but leaking out the >>> top. when i tilted the other way 2 of the runners leaked the fluid out. >>> >>> i don't know these cars at all. since the car wasn't running right i never >>> wanted to let it run long since it wasn't acting like a real car. my mom >>> was watching and said i see some smoke and it sounds funny but of course i >>> told her its just stuff burning off and that it wasn't running right. >>> couldn't really take a chance to look or feel closer. >>> >>> i have seen people mention these cars can run crappy with vac leaks and >>> they don't run without the intake tubes attached? i'm hoping this is what >>> it was. going to make some block off plates and gasket to seal those 2 >>> holes up tight and then install all the old parts on it and hope like magic >>> its back to normal and then i can smog it. >>> >>>> On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 at 10:41:38 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote: >>>> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be >>>> contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here >>>> is probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy >>>> additives that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life. >>>> An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or >>>> transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The >>>> easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel >>>> distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should >>>> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates >>>> at around 50psi, give or take. >>>> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks >>>> correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with. >>>> >>>> ~Holland >>>> >>>>> On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <[email protected]> wrote: >>>>> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding >>>>> injectors of all ages: >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> https://www.injector.com/ >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/ >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> -Larry >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf >>>>> Of Holland Phillips >>>>> Sent: Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM >>>>> To: [email protected] >>>>> Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have? >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test. >>>>> If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look >>>>> at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find some >>>>> used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you >>>>> could swap them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a >>>>> couple of companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic >>>>> injectors. I had mine done by Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, >>>>> so I don't know if they're still in business. They could perform just >>>>> testing to check for flow and pattern. >>>>> Beyond that, I just don't know. >>>>> >>>>> ~Holland >>>>> >>>>> On Feb 29, 2016 18:21, "Chad Rebuck" <[email protected]> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> The key in the cam gear is only there for the alignment until the bolt is >>>>> tightened. It doesn't really hold the cam gear in place once the bolt is >>>>> tightened. Same for the crank pulley too. The key can break if the bolt >>>>> gets loose enough for it to turn. >>>>> >>>>> I'm just curious how the engine sounds as you said it ran smoother for a >>>>> short while when you opened up the throttle. >>>>> >>>>> I'm about out of ideas. If you take it to a shop the first thing they're >>>>> going to do is check the timing again and check the compression I bet. >>>>> >>>>> On Feb 29, 2016 9:05 PM, "damac2004" <[email protected]> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> im afraid to run this car for long but what would be better, a video from >>>>> the engine bay or tailpipe? >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> i didn't change the plug order, etc. when doing all this work, just >>>>> popped the distributor off and layed it in engine bay with battery out. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> the cam i took off the car did have the cam gear tooth broken but it >>>>> didn't move based on how the keyway lined up, is that surprising? i >>>>> bought another cam pulley off a vortex member and he sold it to me the >>>>> exact same way and told me every one he has taken off came the same way? >>>>> i thought that was nuts but have seen through forums searching it has >>>>> happened to others. i got a new cam pulley while doing all this work and >>>>> its still fine. and i have to assume the crank is fine as well since it >>>>> was good running and all the marks are lining up correctly still. >>>>> >>>>> On Monday, February 29, 2016 at 5:56:38 PM UTC-8, chadrebuck wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Also check that the cam sprocket is located in the right place on the >>>>> cam. If the tooth broke off of the cam gear then it could rotate causing >>>>> the timing to be incorrect. Did you mention that the cam sprocket had a >>>>> broken locating tooth? >>>>> >>>>> On Feb 29, 2016 7:47 PM, "Chad Rebuck" <[email protected]> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Changing the cams out will be a waste of time. What did you do to verify >>>>> the spark plug wire order? Can you take a video of how the car is running? >>>>> >>>>> On Feb 29, 2016 7:39 PM, "damac2004" <[email protected]> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> i put the techtronics chip back in and put the older throttle body back >>>>> in with no changes in how the car is acting. i also checked grounds and >>>>> ran some extras to the bundle on head, etc. just in case. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> my issues make for a useless car, no way it could be driven. so my >>>>> problems seem way beyond the little tuning people do to get their cars >>>>> running right. this car ran and drove when i got it with very old and >>>>> worn injector seals and numerous vacuum lines with holes in it. it ran >>>>> its best when hot and on the throttle never gave out on me or died. >>>>> although it had goofy issues with starting consistently and idling a >>>>> little high/rough/inconsistent at times. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> and i see people mention 02 sensors and cts making for a rough running >>>>> car possibly but again this is way worse than that. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> i'm stuck so tomorrow i am going to put the old cams, etc. back on and >>>>> cross my fingers. >>>>> >>>>> On Saturday, February 27, 2016 at 8:41:59 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Since the Mk 2 cars were all pre OBD, they had only one O2 sensor which >>>>> was mounted before the cat. So the ECU never knew if the cat even existed >>>>> or was functioning properly. Now that I think about it, if the O2 sensor >>>>> has no output, or was not connected, the ECU will go into "safe mode", >>>>> which is full rich. Hence your poor fuel mileage. I also recalled that >>>>> the O2 sensor on the Motronic cars is a three wire type, which means it >>>>> has a heater, so its output will become valid more quickly in order to >>>>> reduce emissions. All this is bringing back memories of all the 16V >>>>> trivia I acquired over the years. 😐 >>>>> >>>>> ~Holland >>>>> >>>>> On Feb 27, 2016 20:00, "damac2004" <[email protected]> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> i could test compression but it it did drive fine before i tore it all >>>>> apart, after this incident. >>>>> >>>>> this car had no cat so 02 sensor was laying underneath airbox this whole >>>>> time :). >>>>> >>>>> i thought the car stunk and i got bad mileage but this car was fun to >>>>> drive. i was beating on itand it pulled when i stomped on it all the time >>>>> >>>>> -- >>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >>>>> "MK2-16v" group. >>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an >>>>> email to [email protected]. >>>>> To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. >>>>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v. >>>>> To view this discussion on the web visit >>>>> 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