Thanks Ian for the picture. Now welded by Mole Valley, very speedy service. 
Interesting that it was the second one they had in for the same reason!
Ian
 

________________________________
 From: ian <[email protected]>
To: mogtalk2 <[email protected]> 
Sent: Tuesday, 24 July 2012, 12:37
Subject: Re: [mogtalk2] Plus 4 '07 Hood
  
On 23/07/12 15:20, Martyn J Culling wrote:
> If a butt joint, yes, but if the joint is a thin tube inside a larger one,
> gluing it may be an option. Use a decent epoxy such as JB Weld, and clean and
> degrease twice.
>
> Traditional (24 hour) Aradite will also work, but the grey colour of JB Weld 
> may
> be better on a hood iron. Both should take paint ok. But as JB Weld resists
> higher temperatures, if you have to buy glue, JB Weld is more useful in the
> workshop. There's a plug in the 4/4s engine made from the stuff that I made in
> 1989!
>
> The trick is to utterly degrease, and then do it again. I can't emphasise this
> enough.
>
> rgds Martyn
>
>
> On Jul 23 2012, ian wrote:
>
> On 22/07/12 18:10, Ian Wilson wrote:
>   >  Just tried to raise hood after glorious afternoon run and one of the 
>pivoting
> arms came away from the metal of the header rail. Is this a weld/braise job
> (beyond my scope) or are there other solutions?
>   >
>   >  Many thanks
>   >  Ian Wilson
>
> I had one fail on my mk1 Roadster. It was eventually re-welded by the
> factory. When the other side went, I welded it myself. Welding is the
> only option I can see.
> Ian
>
It's a butt joint with locating spigot. Part A should be welded at point B

Ian





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