I would have thought that with 10 being the maximum loudness then having one 
that goes to 11 for extra loudness would be marvellous !

For anyone who hasn't heard the joke....
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Up_to_eleven

John K.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Michel van der Meij 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2013 9:18 AM
  Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Multiplexing nixies in a tube preamplifier


  Hi Tim,

  Not that I want to influence your design but it sounds a bit odd to have the 
nixies go from 0 to 63 in a valve (pre)amplifier. It is really related to 
something digital that IMHO doesn't really match a design of a valve amplifier. 
I think it is nicer if it would go from 0 to 99. If you use a few latches 
before the 74141 that would solve all your limited I/O problems. Another thing 
that comes to mind is using an IN-13 bar graph tube to indicate the position of 
the volume button.

  Michel






  on Jan 05, 2013, Tim <[email protected]> wrote:

    Hi,

    Thank you for your reply David.  My reason for multiplexing was due to not 
having enough spare pins on the PIC, however having givin this considerable 
thought I have the IO pins that were being used to switch the MSD and LSD anode 
transistors and a third IO pin which was available to control the enable pin 
for the tayloredge SMPS, so by using these three pins allows me to to have 0 - 
7 on the MSD which is great as I wanted 64 steps to indicate  the volume 
control potentiometer position.  

    Sadly there is a but to this (is there not always) I need to be able to 
blank the digits which normally involves using all 4 bits of the 74141.  Now as 
I do not need 7 - 9 I was thinking I could shift all the digits along one 
position, so 0 in the nixie is connected to 1 on the 74141 1 to 2 and so on.  
This results in being able to blank the nixie by sending 000 to ABC and having 
D permanently tied to ground.  This digit shift being easy to work around in 
the firmware.

    I can position the SMPS in such a way that it will not interfere with the 
audio signal path so I would like to try and stick with it for the nixie HT 
supply as the valve HT supply has a delayed start to give chance for the soft 
started heaters to warm up. I want the volume indication to come on at power up 
with a possible count down on it to show the remaining warm up time. 
Additionally to this I am trying to keep the analogue and digital power rails 
separate from one another.

    This is where my questions begin:  Can I leave the cathodes 7 - 9 
    floating or do they need to be tied to something? Will floating digits 
ghost? I would also like to 
    keep my enable signal to disable the SMPS when the amplifier is in standby 
so can I use the now unused 0 output on the 74141 as a logic 
    signal to drive the enable pin on the SMPS?  The only trouble with this is 
when blanking the nixie the SMPS will be disabled unless I use extra logic to 
look at the LSD bits?  (I guess it is quite environmentally friendly to turn 
the SMPS off when the digits are blank but if I was worried about this then I 
guess I would not be building a power hungry inefficient valve amplifier!)

    Regards,
    Tim



    On Wednesday, 2 January 2013 22:25:13 UTC, nixiebunny wrote:
      On 1/2/13 3:01 PM, Tim wrote:

      > I am in the process of building an audio preamp using valves and I am

      > using nixie tubes to indicate the volume control position.  I am using

      > two nixie tubes to indicate the volume and they are being multiplexed

      > via a PIC and 74141.

      >

      > My question to you fine folk is how should I provide power to the nixie

      > tubes.  I have two options available to me:

      >

      >

      > Regards,

      > Tim



      Tim,



      If you can afford the extra four pins on the PIC and another 74141, then 

      you can run the tubes direct (non-multiplexed) and not worry about it.



      If you will be multiplexing them, then the power supply will not conduct 

      the noise to any noticeable extent. You will need a high anode  resistor 

      value, so you can insert a simple two-stage RC low-pass filter (10K 

      series, 0.1uf polyester shunt) between the power supply and the anode 

      resistors to eliminate noise from the anode power.



      You will want to be careful about mounting the display unit away from 

      the input stage of the amplifier, to prevent radiated noise from getting 

      into the input stage where it will be amplified.



      -- 

      David Forbes, Tucson AZ










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