Acrifix© has a very low viscosity cement for Plexiglas under the name Acrifix 
1s 0117. The trick  is to use a syringe with a needle to apply the glue.

 

Another way is to dissolve acrylic powder (saw dust) in chloroform or a less 
‘suspect’ solvent to make your own glue and after fixing apply a little 
chloroform by a syringe  along the seam.

 

Anyhow, it is important to use a cement that offers the same refractive index 
as the material you use.

 

eric

 

Van: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] Namens 
gregebert
Verzonden: vrijdag 13 januari 2017 0:00
Aan: neonixie-l
Onderwerp: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Small run fabrication

 

If you use clear acrylic, it's tricky to get a perfect cemented joint with no 
visible air bubbles. The few times I tried this, I used excess cement and had 
to spend extra time buffing-out the areas where the cement evaporated. If the 
joint was in an area that wasn't visible, I just left the bubbles/smudges. I 
never attempted to polish a cut surface and cement it; I only bonded the 
'native' surfaces that are perfectly smooth.

 

Surprisingly, it's rather easy to gently heat acrylic and bend it to-shape. 
Years ago I made my own fish tank, and there was minimal distortion, no 
cracking, and no bubbling at the bend regions. It was clear acrylic, and I 
didn't even need to buff it.

 

Also, if you need to sand-down edges, joints, etc, they will buff-out very 
nicely if you are patient. A buffed surface will never appear exactly like the 
native surface, but it will be very close. Even properly cemented seams will be 
invisible with enough sanding/buffing. Reflections from a distant light source 
are the best way to assess the surface smoothness.

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