Greg makes a good point. Getting nice clean bubble free joins in acrylic is
not for the faint of heart. One trick is to glue them with extra material
proud of the joint then flush route to get a clean edge. You then flame
polish the cut edge (you'll need a hydrogen/oxygen torch for a good clean
polish) but only after letting the joint fix for some time. When done right
they look great, but it seems bubbles can appear after some time.
Dichloromethane is a good solvent to bond the acrylic together, but use in
a well ventilated area....

On Thu, Jan 12, 2017 at 3:00 PM, gregebert <[email protected]> wrote:

> If you use clear acrylic, it's tricky to get a perfect cemented joint with
> no visible air bubbles. The few times I tried this, I used excess cement
> and had to spend extra time buffing-out the areas where the cement
> evaporated. If the joint was in an area that wasn't visible, I just left
> the bubbles/smudges. I never attempted to polish a cut surface and cement
> it; I only bonded the 'native' surfaces that are perfectly smooth.
>
> Surprisingly, it's rather easy to *gently* heat acrylic and bend it
> to-shape. Years ago I made my own fish tank, and there was minimal
> distortion, no cracking, and no bubbling at the bend regions. It was clear
> acrylic, and I didn't even need to buff it.
>
> Also, if you need to sand-down edges, joints, etc, they will buff-out very
> nicely if you are patient. A buffed surface will never appear exactly like
> the native surface, but it will be very close. Even properly cemented seams
> will be invisible with enough sanding/buffing. Reflections from a distant
> light source are the best way to assess the surface smoothness.
>
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