If you use clear acrylic, it's tricky to get a perfect cemented joint with no visible air bubbles. The few times I tried this, I used excess cement and had to spend extra time buffing-out the areas where the cement evaporated. If the joint was in an area that wasn't visible, I just left the bubbles/smudges. I never attempted to polish a cut surface and cement it; I only bonded the 'native' surfaces that are perfectly smooth.
Surprisingly, it's rather easy to *gently* heat acrylic and bend it to-shape. Years ago I made my own fish tank, and there was minimal distortion, no cracking, and no bubbling at the bend regions. It was clear acrylic, and I didn't even need to buff it. Also, if you need to sand-down edges, joints, etc, they will buff-out very nicely if you are patient. A buffed surface will never appear exactly like the native surface, but it will be very close. Even properly cemented seams will be invisible with enough sanding/buffing. Reflections from a distant light source are the best way to assess the surface smoothness. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/8f78b927-e9af-421b-98ae-c5fb6c0db238%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
