Perhaps I misunderstand, but each digit is a cathode. To turn it on, pull it ground, to turn it off let it float or push it to around 80V.
On Friday, May 3, 2019 at 8:10:15 AM UTC-4, Justin Scott wrote: > > Thank you! I completely understand now. My design will be direct-drive, so > I won't need to switch the anode. Will I need to switch the cathode though, > or can I just leave it on continuously? > > On Thursday, May 2, 2019 at 10:43:20 AM UTC-4, gregebert wrote: >> >> Switching the anodes is what multiplexing does, the advantage being that >> you can share the cathode logic across several tubes. But with savings, >> there is also a hidden cost: You must run the anode current higher for >> multiplexed operation versus direct-drive. If the tube is specifically >> designed to support higher peak-current for multiplexing, then there's >> minimal risk; I recall some Burroughs tubes state in the datasheet not to >> use multiplexing. >> >> I've done a number of clock designs, all of them direct-drive. Cost is a >> secondary concern; maximizing the life of the almost- irreplaceable nixie >> tube is the overriding goal. With direct-drive, you dont need to switch the >> anode. However, I have some designs that use anode current-regulators which >> is basically a switch that is not fully-on. >> >> Ghosting only occurs with a muliplexed display, so if you are concerned >> about it, be sure that your design has programmable blanking-time, >> refresh-rate, and on-time. You will have to experiment to get the best >> results. >> > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/beebe223-8ce6-4ef5-8587-1cd2f8277e73%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
