Thanks for this helpful info! I just need to find out what tube voltage I
should expect for these tubes. Sounds like you think 165, so I'll go with
that. I can adjust later, as you say.

On Mon, May 6, 2019 at 1:36 AM gregebert <[email protected]> wrote:

> The exact anode voltage is not critical; it needs to be high enough to
> ensure the tube is reliably ionized over the life of the tube. 200 volts is
> a good value.
>
> What matters the most is the *current*. If the current is too high, the
> tube's life will be reduced. If the current is too low, the brightness
> might be less than desired, and your tube may develop cathode poisoning,
> where portions of some cathodes dont fully illuminate. Generally, cathode
> poisoning is reversible so dont get overly concerned about it at the moment.
>
> The simplest method to limit anode current is to use an anode resistor.
> You can calculate the approximate value of the anode resistor from basic
> circuit theory:
>
> Anode_supply_voltage = (anode_current) * (anode_resistor) - Tube voltage.
>
> If your tube's voltage is 165V, and the anode supply is 200V, and the
> ideal anode current is 2.75mA, you would need about 12.7K for your anode
> resistor. After you setup a tube and your supply, measure the voltage
> across the anode resistor to calculate the current to make sure it's the
> right value.
>
> From the formula, you will notice that variations the tube's voltage drop
> and the supply-voltage affect the current. But at higher supply voltages,
> the variations in these will have smaller impact on tube-current. My first
> nixie clock has a +340V anode supply, so I just use larger resistors and
> waste a bit more energy.
>
> Personally, I dont like anode resistors because the anode current will
> vary as the tube and power supply age, so I use a simple current limiter.
> I've posted about this a few times in the past so you can do a search for
> details. It's a matter of choice, and there are valid arguments a regulator
> is overkill.
>
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