IN-4 tubes aren’t doped with mercury. > On May 3, 2019, at 11:03 PM, Justin Scott <[email protected]> wrote: > > Thanks. I'm hoping to use the IN-4. I like the circular bulb and they're a > good size for the front panel of a stereo. > >> On Friday, May 3, 2019 at 11:05:46 AM UTC-4, Paul Andrews wrote: >> You mean PWM it (because they don't latch on)? Yes, this is how you dim >> them. There is some anecdotal evidence to indicate that this does indeed >> lengthen tube life. However, if the tube is doped with mercury, the life is >> in the 100,000s of hours. For undoped tubes it is around 10,000 hours. So >> let us know what tubes you plan to use. The very common (and very robust) >> IN-12 are long-life. Some people find the '5' digit on them annoying... >> >>> On Friday, May 3, 2019 at 11:01:39 AM UTC-4, Justin Scott wrote: >>> Right. Or to turn a digit on you could switch the cathode quickly, so there >>> would be lower current on average moving through the tube. I assume this >>> would lengthen tube life, but sounds like it's not necessary. >>> >>>> On Friday, May 3, 2019 at 10:33:30 AM UTC-4, Paul Andrews wrote: >>>> Perhaps I misunderstand, but each digit is a cathode. To turn it on, pull >>>> it ground, to turn it off let it float or push it to around 80V. >>>> >>>>> On Friday, May 3, 2019 at 8:10:15 AM UTC-4, Justin Scott wrote: >>>>> Thank you! I completely understand now. My design will be direct-drive, >>>>> so I won't need to switch the anode. Will I need to switch the cathode >>>>> though, or can I just leave it on continuously? >>>>> >>>>>> On Thursday, May 2, 2019 at 10:43:20 AM UTC-4, gregebert wrote: >>>>>> Switching the anodes is what multiplexing does, the advantage being that >>>>>> you can share the cathode logic across several tubes. But with savings, >>>>>> there is also a hidden cost: You must run the anode current higher for >>>>>> multiplexed operation versus direct-drive. If the tube is specifically >>>>>> designed to support higher peak-current for multiplexing, then there's >>>>>> minimal risk; I recall some Burroughs tubes state in the datasheet not >>>>>> to use multiplexing. >>>>>> >>>>>> I've done a number of clock designs, all of them direct-drive. Cost is a >>>>>> secondary concern; maximizing the life of the almost- irreplaceable >>>>>> nixie tube is the overriding goal. With direct-drive, you dont need to >>>>>> switch the anode. However, I have some designs that use anode >>>>>> current-regulators which is basically a switch that is not fully-on. >>>>>> >>>>>> Ghosting only occurs with a muliplexed display, so if you are concerned >>>>>> about it, be sure that your design has programmable blanking-time, >>>>>> refresh-rate, and on-time. You will have to experiment to get the best >>>>>> results. > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the Google > Groups "neonixie-l" group. > To unsubscribe from this topic, visit > https://groups.google.com/d/topic/neonixie-l/gIa9ngzJVKk/unsubscribe. > To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to > [email protected]. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To view this discussion on the web, visit > https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/2552f2c0-cca1-4269-b857-ce0826bf62e4%40googlegroups.com. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
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