That would be sweet, but I'm going keep it simple for my 1st go-round.

I want to use these tubes:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/IN-4-IN4-4-nixie-digit-tube-display-indicator-vintage-lamp-USSR-NOS-NEW/323117163758

The listing says "lighting voltage" of 170, "operating / discharge 
sustaining voltage" of 160, and "power supply voltage" of 200. Which of 
these do you think is the voltage at the anode? I'm trying to figure out 
what my HV power supply voltage and anode resistor should be. I thought 
these tubes typically dropped 150V?

On Saturday, May 4, 2019 at 5:07:20 AM UTC-4, David Pye wrote:
>
> One downside of the in4 is a supposed lack of mercury inside, and so a 
> shorter lifespan than some of the other tubes eg in12.
>
> How about a few bargraph Nixies for a graphic equaliser too? :-)
>
> On Sat, 4 May 2019, 04:03 Justin Scott, <[email protected] <javascript:>> 
> wrote:
>
>> Thanks. I'm hoping to use the IN-4. I like the circular bulb and they're 
>> a good size for the front panel of a stereo.
>>
>> On Friday, May 3, 2019 at 11:05:46 AM UTC-4, Paul Andrews wrote:
>>>
>>> You mean PWM it (because they don't latch on)? Yes, this is how you dim 
>>> them. There is some anecdotal evidence to indicate that this does indeed 
>>> lengthen tube life. However, if the tube is doped with mercury, the life is 
>>> in the 100,000s of hours. For undoped tubes it is around 10,000 hours. So 
>>> let us know what tubes you plan to use. The very common (and very robust) 
>>> IN-12 are long-life. Some people find the '5' digit on them annoying...
>>>
>>> On Friday, May 3, 2019 at 11:01:39 AM UTC-4, Justin Scott wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Right. Or to turn a digit on you could switch the cathode quickly, so 
>>>> there would be lower current on average moving through the tube. I assume 
>>>> this would lengthen tube life, but sounds like it's not necessary.
>>>>
>>>> On Friday, May 3, 2019 at 10:33:30 AM UTC-4, Paul Andrews wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Perhaps I misunderstand, but each digit is a cathode. To turn it on, 
>>>>> pull it ground, to turn it off let it float or push it to around 80V.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Friday, May 3, 2019 at 8:10:15 AM UTC-4, Justin Scott wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thank you! I completely understand now. My design will be 
>>>>>> direct-drive, so I won't need to switch the anode. Will I need to switch 
>>>>>> the cathode though, or can I just leave it on continuously?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Thursday, May 2, 2019 at 10:43:20 AM UTC-4, gregebert wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Switching the anodes is what multiplexing does, the advantage being 
>>>>>>> that you can share the cathode logic across several tubes. But with 
>>>>>>> savings, there is also a hidden cost: You must run the anode current 
>>>>>>> higher 
>>>>>>> for multiplexed operation versus direct-drive. If the tube is 
>>>>>>> specifically 
>>>>>>> designed to support higher peak-current for multiplexing, then there's 
>>>>>>> minimal risk; I recall some Burroughs tubes state in the datasheet not 
>>>>>>> to 
>>>>>>> use multiplexing.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I've done a number of clock designs, all of them direct-drive. Cost 
>>>>>>> is a secondary concern; maximizing the life of the almost- 
>>>>>>> irreplaceable 
>>>>>>> nixie tube is the overriding goal. With direct-drive, you dont need to 
>>>>>>> switch the anode. However, I have some designs that use anode 
>>>>>>> current-regulators which is basically a switch that is not fully-on.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Ghosting only occurs with a muliplexed display, so if you are 
>>>>>>> concerned about it, be sure that your design has programmable 
>>>>>>> blanking-time, refresh-rate, and on-time. You will have to experiment 
>>>>>>> to 
>>>>>>> get the best results.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> -- 
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