Thanks. I'm hoping to use the IN-4. I like the circular bulb and they're a good size for the front panel of a stereo.
On Friday, May 3, 2019 at 11:05:46 AM UTC-4, Paul Andrews wrote: > > You mean PWM it (because they don't latch on)? Yes, this is how you dim > them. There is some anecdotal evidence to indicate that this does indeed > lengthen tube life. However, if the tube is doped with mercury, the life is > in the 100,000s of hours. For undoped tubes it is around 10,000 hours. So > let us know what tubes you plan to use. The very common (and very robust) > IN-12 are long-life. Some people find the '5' digit on them annoying... > > On Friday, May 3, 2019 at 11:01:39 AM UTC-4, Justin Scott wrote: >> >> Right. Or to turn a digit on you could switch the cathode quickly, so >> there would be lower current on average moving through the tube. I assume >> this would lengthen tube life, but sounds like it's not necessary. >> >> On Friday, May 3, 2019 at 10:33:30 AM UTC-4, Paul Andrews wrote: >>> >>> Perhaps I misunderstand, but each digit is a cathode. To turn it on, >>> pull it ground, to turn it off let it float or push it to around 80V. >>> >>> On Friday, May 3, 2019 at 8:10:15 AM UTC-4, Justin Scott wrote: >>>> >>>> Thank you! I completely understand now. My design will be direct-drive, >>>> so I won't need to switch the anode. Will I need to switch the cathode >>>> though, or can I just leave it on continuously? >>>> >>>> On Thursday, May 2, 2019 at 10:43:20 AM UTC-4, gregebert wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Switching the anodes is what multiplexing does, the advantage being >>>>> that you can share the cathode logic across several tubes. But with >>>>> savings, there is also a hidden cost: You must run the anode current >>>>> higher >>>>> for multiplexed operation versus direct-drive. If the tube is >>>>> specifically >>>>> designed to support higher peak-current for multiplexing, then there's >>>>> minimal risk; I recall some Burroughs tubes state in the datasheet not to >>>>> use multiplexing. >>>>> >>>>> I've done a number of clock designs, all of them direct-drive. Cost is >>>>> a secondary concern; maximizing the life of the almost- irreplaceable >>>>> nixie >>>>> tube is the overriding goal. With direct-drive, you dont need to switch >>>>> the >>>>> anode. However, I have some designs that use anode current-regulators >>>>> which >>>>> is basically a switch that is not fully-on. >>>>> >>>>> Ghosting only occurs with a muliplexed display, so if you are >>>>> concerned about it, be sure that your design has programmable >>>>> blanking-time, refresh-rate, and on-time. You will have to experiment to >>>>> get the best results. >>>>> >>>> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/2552f2c0-cca1-4269-b857-ce0826bf62e4%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
