A 74141 might work properly, because it's a decoder that only allows 1 
output to be driven low at any given time. To properly drive a dekatron, 
such as an A-101, you should drive it with an 'overlapping' drive pattern, 
which has 6 phases:
1- Drive cathode 'N'
2-Drive cathode 'N' and the first steering cathode ring
3-Drive first steering ring
4-Drive both steering rings
5-Drive second steering ring
6-Drive second steering ring and cathode 'N+1'
(Repeat)

I did experiment with a non-overlapping pattern several years ago, and it 
was flaky. The 6-phase pattern is rock solid.

On Saturday, February 13, 2021 at 7:16:35 AM UTC-8 Jon wrote:

> >Can a Dekatron be driven like a Nixie from a 74141 instead of using the 
> steering electrodes?
>
> I've not actually done the experiment in the way that you say, but the 
> answer should be 'yes'. You'll need a selector dekatron though where all 
> the main cathodes are brought out to their own individual pins. So GS10C / 
> 6476 / A101 for example rather than GC10B / 6802 / OG4.
>
> There is actually a dekatron-lookalike, the GR10A, which is designed to be 
> used like this - it's essentially a GS10C without the guide electrodes 
> (different base, but that's a detail).
>
> Jon.
>
> On Saturday, February 13, 2021 at 2:38:21 PM UTC [email protected] wrote:
>
>> Alex; you are missing the point. Neither of the circuits shown in various 
>> data sheets work properly!
>> The circuit that does work and the one I'm using has the capacitor 
>> connected to the other side of the resistor.
>> A quick question so it does not get lost below: Can a Dekatron be driven 
>> like a Nixie from a 74141 instead of using the steering electrodes?
>>
>> [image: 8453_LR.jpg]
>> [image: 8453 Board_LR.jpg]
>> Each tube has its own small circuit board that connects to a PIC on my 
>> power supply by a 6 wire (+5v, Gnd, 4 BCD) harness. and by a separate two 
>> wire harness if High Voltage is needed (the 2 pin 0.2" spacing header on 
>> the perfboard above). My wires are fed through a hole and loop down to be 
>> soldered to provide strain relief. All boards mount on two spacers. Some 
>> mount directly on the back of the tube if space allows. Any board can be 
>> removed in less than a minute, usually 2 screws but 4 screws where the 
>> board is not attached to the tube, then pull one or two connectors. 
>> [image: Wiring_LR.jpg]
>> The E1T tube does not count in sync with the others because it is 
>> clocked, not fed by the common BCD bus. It takes time for the filaments to 
>> warm up so it needs a reset every decade to get it in sync. However it 
>> cannot count backwards without a lot of effort I'm not about to expend so 
>> it stays like this. The hole below is for LED displays.
>> [image: Display Demo_LR.jpg]
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Feb 13, 2021 at 3:38 AM Alex <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Just a thought, maybe the diodes originally used had a much different 
>>> reverse leakage which, in half wave rectified setup, caused the polarity in 
>>> the tube to flip slightly - at low leakage current levels - and thus 
>>> extinguish it more cleanly between ripples. Modern(!) silicon (verses 
>>> germanium) may be too sharp for it? I think your full wave design is 
>>> probably best anyhow, the half wave was likely a cost compremise!
>>> - Alex
>>>
>>> On Friday, 12 February 2021 at 20:08:35 UTC [email protected] wrote:
>>>
>>>> I tried Rk at 12k and 22k and it is still erratic.
>>>> Next I went back to full wave and connected it to my display chassis 
>>>> that runs from a PIC that counts at various speeds. I see the circuit only 
>>>> counts slowly but at 10/sec it fails. No flickering, it just does not 
>>>> count.
>>>> I changed the capacitor to the other side of Rk and it works perfectly.
>>>> I can't believe it is a typo carried through three documents but 
>>>> companies have been known to intentionally place errors to cause grief to 
>>>> anyone trying to steal their designs.
>>>> This circuit works.
>>>> [image: 8453 Circuit.jpg]
>>>>
>>>> On Friday, February 12, 2021 at 12:47:29 PM UTC-5 Dekatron42 wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Thanks, I've never looked at that particular datasheet previously, 
>>>>> only the Philips ones even though I have a few Amperex stamped Z550M's.
>>>>>
>>>>> In this document: https://www.dos4ever.com/Z550M/Z550M2.pdf (a 
>>>>> somewhat clearer PDF can be downloaded here: 
>>>>> http://www.tube-tester.com/sites/nixie/dat_arch/Z550M_2.pdf) there is 
>>>>> a paragraph on "Supply voltage" on page 120 where they mention a minimum 
>>>>> repetition frequency of 80 pulses per second as a minmum for proper 
>>>>> operation - perhaps that is the reason why it doesn't work as well on 
>>>>> just 
>>>>> half wave rectification. Maybe Amperex had some specially made to be able 
>>>>> to drive them at 117 VAC @ 60Hz?
>>>>>
>>>>> /Martin
>>>>>
>>>>> On Friday, 12 February 2021 at 17:56:07 UTC+1 [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Martin; See attached for data sheet. I have tried different 
>>>>>> capacitors. They make no difference for either full wave or half wave - 
>>>>>> full wave always works with no indication of problems and half wave 
>>>>>> flickers all over the place and never works (unless I move the capacitor 
>>>>>> connection).
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Bill van Dijk: I am in Canada, 60 Hz. Control grid?? See data sheet 
>>>>>> attached.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I was hoping someone else would have tried these circuits. I have 
>>>>>> used a 'scope to check the various signals and they look fine.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 9:06 AM Dekatron42 <[email protected]> 
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Which datasheet do you use? I only have information with the full 
>>>>>>> wave rectifier.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> What happens if you use a 470nF or 1uF capacitor with the half wave 
>>>>>>> rectifier? I made some quick LTSpice simulations which shows that a 
>>>>>>> higher 
>>>>>>> capacitor might work as the voltage seems to fall low enough between 
>>>>>>> each 
>>>>>>> period, but only real tests can show if that works properly.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> /Martin
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Friday, 12 February 2021 at 14:13:47 UTC+1 [email protected] 
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Hi Martin, I changed the circuit back to halfwave using a single 
>>>>>>>> diode from the bridge rectifier and changing the capacitor. This was 
>>>>>>>> absolute minimum change without moving anything else. Back came the 
>>>>>>>> erratic flashing. So it's not the diode. It just does not like half 
>>>>>>>> wave.
>>>>>>>> My circuits are direct copies from the data sheet.
>>>>>>>> Peter
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:21 PM Dekatron42 <[email protected]> 
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Nice that it works!
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> My understanding is that they need rectified AC, with just a 
>>>>>>>>> little smoothing so as not to make it a pure DC voltage, as they 
>>>>>>>>> extinguish 
>>>>>>>>> during the portion of the voltage when it is to low to maintain the 
>>>>>>>>> glow, 
>>>>>>>>> and they are re-ignited when the voltage rise again as long as a 
>>>>>>>>> trigger 
>>>>>>>>> electrode has the correct voltage to initiate a glow, much like a 
>>>>>>>>> thyratron.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Maybe you can find the reason for it working now compared to 
>>>>>>>>> earlier failures if you check the voltage across the 
>>>>>>>>> Anode-Cathode-Ignition 
>>>>>>>>> electrode with an oscilloscope?
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I've also had some problems with CMOS ic's when I have had poor, 
>>>>>>>>> or no, connection to VCC/GND on the power pins - the circuit worked 
>>>>>>>>> quite 
>>>>>>>>> well until I touched some pins.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> /Martin
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Thursday, 11 February 2021 at 21:50:49 UTC+1 [email protected] 
>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> I have solved the problem but I don't understand why.
>>>>>>>>>> Having tried all the suggestions except this, I went to a full 
>>>>>>>>>> wave rectifier. It is not quite the same as the data sheet but does 
>>>>>>>>>> the 
>>>>>>>>>> same thing.
>>>>>>>>>> It also has the capacitor connected per the data sheet, the same 
>>>>>>>>>> as my half wave circuit that did not work.
>>>>>>>>>> This is rock solid with no indication of any other flickering. I 
>>>>>>>>>> am using the first (worst) tube. Touching the glass has no effect.
>>>>>>>>>> Apparently the tube does not like half wave. Perhaps it was my 
>>>>>>>>>> 1N4007 diode? They can switch too fast and maybe it needed a snubber.
>>>>>>>>>> I also tried DC from a variable regulated power supply (HP 6448B up 
>>>>>>>>>> to 600 [email protected] amp, and no, I did not go that far). That locked 
>>>>>>>>>> the display on one digit. The data sheet says it needs rectified 
>>>>>>>>>> line, not 
>>>>>>>>>> DC.
>>>>>>>>>> I am running my tests from an HP supply for the 5v and an 
>>>>>>>>>> isolation transformer driven by a Variac for the AC so I have full 
>>>>>>>>>> control 
>>>>>>>>>> of all voltages. 
>>>>>>>>>> This is my final schematic. It is driven by a PIC with parallel 
>>>>>>>>>> connectors for each display. I used a PIC to generate the BCD 
>>>>>>>>>> because CMOS 
>>>>>>>>>> would not drive the three 74141 for the Nixies. The PIC counts up 
>>>>>>>>>> and down 
>>>>>>>>>> at varying speeds which would have been more difficult with CMOS.
>>>>>>>>>> [image: 8453 Circuit.jpg]
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 10:33 AM Dekatron42 <[email protected]> 
>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> Touching the glass means that you get a capacitive coupling 
>>>>>>>>>>> which will upset them somewhat, there was a special socket made for 
>>>>>>>>>>> this by 
>>>>>>>>>>> Philips which has a partial metal screen surrounding the tube. The 
>>>>>>>>>>> socket 
>>>>>>>>>>> is nicknamed "der Kuss" , "The kiss", due to its form. I couldn't 
>>>>>>>>>>> find a 
>>>>>>>>>>> photo on the Internet now but I know it exists as I have some in my 
>>>>>>>>>>> storage 
>>>>>>>>>>> and in an instrument that uses them. That instrument is called 
>>>>>>>>>>> PW4261 
>>>>>>>>>>> Timer, some photos of the externals can be found on the Internet. 
>>>>>>>>>>> On this 
>>>>>>>>>>> socket all of the resistors are mounted flush to the pins to 
>>>>>>>>>>> minimize the 
>>>>>>>>>>> distance, but the capacitors and power supply is mounted some 40cm 
>>>>>>>>>>> from the 
>>>>>>>>>>> tubes themselves, likewise there are long wires to the drivers.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> You can also have a look at the manual for the PW4231 which I 
>>>>>>>>>>> scanned that can be downloaded from here: 
>>>>>>>>>>> https://frank.pocnet.net/other/sos/Philips_PW4232.pdf if that 
>>>>>>>>>>> can help you with the voltages for the drivers.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> /Martin
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> On Thursday, 11 February 2021 at 15:50:55 UTC+1 
>>>>>>>>>>> [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> I meant dekatron in my last reply to gregebert.
>>>>>>>>>>>> I have 3 of these tubes, all apparently new (NOS).
>>>>>>>>>>>> Per your suggestion I tried the other two. One is almost 
>>>>>>>>>>>> perfect but flashes the 2 a bit when 8 is selected. The third is 
>>>>>>>>>>>> perfect 
>>>>>>>>>>>> unless I hold the tube in my fingers by the glass where I get lots 
>>>>>>>>>>>> of 
>>>>>>>>>>>> random flashing.
>>>>>>>>>>>> Remember that the really bad one works perfectly with 
>>>>>>>>>>>> the capacitor moved as I mentioned. I don't know if touching the 
>>>>>>>>>>>> glass 
>>>>>>>>>>>> affects it.
>>>>>>>>>>>>   More later, I will be away this morning.  
>>>>>>>>>>>> Peter.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 2:10 AM Dekatron42 <
>>>>>>>>>>>> [email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Have you tried the circuit in the J.B Dance book below? Here 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> they use a center tapped transformer and also a much lower value 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> capacitor, 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> only 33nF versus 250nF in your circuit - I've only evere seen 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 33nF used in 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> real instruments using these indicators.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Quite a few of the Z550M/ZM1050 are broken internally, I have 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> a box of them, and that seems to be due to the welding of the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> internal 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> parts coming loose when shaken or hit hard (the same problem 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> exists with 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> the B9012/NL9012 tubes - I have a few broken ones of those too 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> with 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> internal pieces that have come loose) - sometimes you can hear 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> these loose 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> pieces if you shake the tube very carefully close to your ear. 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> What usually 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> happens is that a rather large round center piece comes loose and 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> in the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> worst case shortens some of the electrodes but usually only makes 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> it hard 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> or impossible to get all digits to light up poperly and some of 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> them 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> trigger easier than others due to the distances between 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> electrodes are 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> differing, shaking the tube a little moves that effect around so 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> other 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> digits will start to work and vice versa.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> /Martin
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> [image: JBDance-Z550M.JPG]
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Thursday, 11 February 2021 at 06:02:24 UTC+1 gregebert 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> If you have an isolation transformer, can you put a scope on 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the cathode line to verify the ripple is not excessive ? Rk and 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Ck create 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> an RC filter around 77Hz, and the line is 50-60Hz, so there 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> could be some 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ripple.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Wednesday, February 10, 2021 at 8:26:51 PM UTC-8 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I tried varying it with absolutely no effect. It runs 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> perfectly at 5v with the capacitor moved to the other side of 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the resistor. 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> However I was clocking slowly. It may not run at spec speed. I 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> seem to 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> remember reading of using 5 to 8 volts for the logic.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> The data sheet shows the following which I'm inclined to 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> believe. I will try Ck directly on the pins tomorrow. Someone 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> must 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> have tried this circuit.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> [image: 8453 Cct.JPG]
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Wed, Feb 10, 2021 at 11:12 PM gregebert <
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> [email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I suspect the differential voltage between lit vs non-lit 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> numerals is too low. The CMOS device is basically driving 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> grids to 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> determine which cathode will be illuminated. I've seen similar 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> behavior 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> with an A-101 dekatron. What voltage are you using for VDD ? 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Is it 8V as 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> indicated on the schematic, or a more-conventional 5V ?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Wednesday, February 10, 2021 at 7:22:25 PM UTC-8 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I think you are wrong. The literature explains this tube 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> is designed to be driven by 5v logic and it does work. The 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> steering 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> electrodes are close to the Anode voltage which is grounded 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and only 5v 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> pulses (square waves) are needed. Note all the cathodes are 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> connected 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> together internally.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I got to thinking about the C1 position. The data sheet 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> shows it per my schematic and I can't believe they made that 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> mistake 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> several times including the hand drawn notes of the designer. 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I think maybe 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I needed to have C1 directly on the socket pins and will try 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> that tomorrow.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Thanks for your interest though but you are thinking Nixie 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Tubes, this is a special tube with steering electrodes..
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Wed, Feb 10, 2021 at 9:42 PM chuckrr <
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> [email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> That schematic is so wrong in so many ways.   You need 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> high voltage transistors operating the tube cathodes.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> You need high resistance drving the transistor bases.  
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>  You need a buffer such as 4049 or 4050 driving the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> resistor, which in turn drives the transistor base.  Only 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> then would I dare to use the 4028....to operate the buffer, 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> which in turn 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> operates the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> transistor base via appropriate high resistance.  That is 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the only sure fire way I know of to attain noise-free 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> performance from CMOS 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> logic
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> driving cold cathode tubes.   That schematic there is a 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> noisy deal.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ---- Original Message ----
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> From: "peter bunge" <[email protected]>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Sent: 2/10/2021 8:15:21 PM
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> To: "neonixie-l" <[email protected]>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Subject: [neonixie-l] 8453/Z550M erratic
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Using the schematic from the data sheet
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> [image: 8453 Circuit.jpg]
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> This works with the count moving around but other numbers 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> flash erratically, especially close to the number that is 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> supposed to be 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> lit.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> *When I moved  the bottom of C1 to the other side of R1 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> it works perfectly.  It is rock steady and does not care 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> about line voltage 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> or the 5v supply (shown above as 8v but used at 5v)*
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> If this is an error it is continued through all the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> documentation and is consistent. Changing the value of C1 up 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and down by 10 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> had little effect but a smaller C1 helps a bit. My Rst are 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> all directly on 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the socket pins and the wires are all about 5 inches long.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I have varied the line voltage with little effect. 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Any suggestions???
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
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