I tried Rk at 12k and 22k and it is still erratic.
Next I went back to full wave and connected it to my display chassis that 
runs from a PIC that counts at various speeds. I see the circuit only 
counts slowly but at 10/sec it fails. No flickering, it just does not count.
I changed the capacitor to the other side of Rk and it works perfectly.
I can't believe it is a typo carried through three documents but companies 
have been known to intentionally place errors to cause grief to anyone 
trying to steal their designs.
This circuit works.
[image: 8453 Circuit.jpg]

On Friday, February 12, 2021 at 12:47:29 PM UTC-5 Dekatron42 wrote:

> Thanks, I've never looked at that particular datasheet previously, only 
> the Philips ones even though I have a few Amperex stamped Z550M's.
>
> In this document: https://www.dos4ever.com/Z550M/Z550M2.pdf (a somewhat 
> clearer PDF can be downloaded here: 
> http://www.tube-tester.com/sites/nixie/dat_arch/Z550M_2.pdf) there is a 
> paragraph on "Supply voltage" on page 120 where they mention a minimum 
> repetition frequency of 80 pulses per second as a minmum for proper 
> operation - perhaps that is the reason why it doesn't work as well on just 
> half wave rectification. Maybe Amperex had some specially made to be able 
> to drive them at 117 VAC @ 60Hz?
>
> /Martin
>
> On Friday, 12 February 2021 at 17:56:07 UTC+1 [email protected] wrote:
>
>> Martin; See attached for data sheet. I have tried different capacitors. 
>> They make no difference for either full wave or half wave - full wave 
>> always works with no indication of problems and half wave flickers all over 
>> the place and never works (unless I move the capacitor connection).
>>
>> Bill van Dijk: I am in Canada, 60 Hz. Control grid?? See data sheet 
>> attached.
>>
>> I was hoping someone else would have tried these circuits. I have used a 
>> 'scope to check the various signals and they look fine.
>>
>> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 9:06 AM Dekatron42 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Which datasheet do you use? I only have information with the full wave 
>>> rectifier.
>>>
>>> What happens if you use a 470nF or 1uF capacitor with the half wave 
>>> rectifier? I made some quick LTSpice simulations which shows that a higher 
>>> capacitor might work as the voltage seems to fall low enough between each 
>>> period, but only real tests can show if that works properly.
>>>
>>> /Martin
>>>
>>> On Friday, 12 February 2021 at 14:13:47 UTC+1 [email protected] wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi Martin, I changed the circuit back to halfwave using a single diode 
>>>> from the bridge rectifier and changing the capacitor. This was absolute 
>>>> minimum change without moving anything else. Back came the 
>>>> erratic flashing. So it's not the diode. It just does not like half wave.
>>>> My circuits are direct copies from the data sheet.
>>>> Peter
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:21 PM Dekatron42 <[email protected]> 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Nice that it works!
>>>>>
>>>>> My understanding is that they need rectified AC, with just a little 
>>>>> smoothing so as not to make it a pure DC voltage, as they extinguish 
>>>>> during 
>>>>> the portion of the voltage when it is to low to maintain the glow, and 
>>>>> they 
>>>>> are re-ignited when the voltage rise again as long as a trigger electrode 
>>>>> has the correct voltage to initiate a glow, much like a thyratron.
>>>>>
>>>>> Maybe you can find the reason for it working now compared to earlier 
>>>>> failures if you check the voltage across the Anode-Cathode-Ignition 
>>>>> electrode with an oscilloscope?
>>>>>
>>>>> I've also had some problems with CMOS ic's when I have had poor, or 
>>>>> no, connection to VCC/GND on the power pins - the circuit worked quite 
>>>>> well 
>>>>> until I touched some pins.
>>>>>
>>>>> /Martin
>>>>>
>>>>> On Thursday, 11 February 2021 at 21:50:49 UTC+1 [email protected] 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I have solved the problem but I don't understand why.
>>>>>> Having tried all the suggestions except this, I went to a full wave 
>>>>>> rectifier. It is not quite the same as the data sheet but does the same 
>>>>>> thing.
>>>>>> It also has the capacitor connected per the data sheet, the same as 
>>>>>> my half wave circuit that did not work.
>>>>>> This is rock solid with no indication of any other flickering. I am 
>>>>>> using the first (worst) tube. Touching the glass has no effect.
>>>>>> Apparently the tube does not like half wave. Perhaps it was my 1N4007 
>>>>>> diode? They can switch too fast and maybe it needed a snubber.
>>>>>> I also tried DC from a variable regulated power supply (HP 6448B up 
>>>>>> to 600 [email protected] amp, and no, I did not go that far). That locked the 
>>>>>> display on one digit. The data sheet says it needs rectified line, not 
>>>>>> DC.
>>>>>> I am running my tests from an HP supply for the 5v and an isolation 
>>>>>> transformer driven by a Variac for the AC so I have full control of all 
>>>>>> voltages. 
>>>>>> This is my final schematic. It is driven by a PIC with parallel 
>>>>>> connectors for each display. I used a PIC to generate the BCD because 
>>>>>> CMOS 
>>>>>> would not drive the three 74141 for the Nixies. The PIC counts up and 
>>>>>> down 
>>>>>> at varying speeds which would have been more difficult with CMOS.
>>>>>> [image: 8453 Circuit.jpg]
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 10:33 AM Dekatron42 <[email protected]> 
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Touching the glass means that you get a capacitive coupling which 
>>>>>>> will upset them somewhat, there was a special socket made for this by 
>>>>>>> Philips which has a partial metal screen surrounding the tube. The 
>>>>>>> socket 
>>>>>>> is nicknamed "der Kuss" , "The kiss", due to its form. I couldn't find 
>>>>>>> a 
>>>>>>> photo on the Internet now but I know it exists as I have some in my 
>>>>>>> storage 
>>>>>>> and in an instrument that uses them. That instrument is called PW4261 
>>>>>>> Timer, some photos of the externals can be found on the Internet. On 
>>>>>>> this 
>>>>>>> socket all of the resistors are mounted flush to the pins to minimize 
>>>>>>> the 
>>>>>>> distance, but the capacitors and power supply is mounted some 40cm from 
>>>>>>> the 
>>>>>>> tubes themselves, likewise there are long wires to the drivers.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> You can also have a look at the manual for the PW4231 which I 
>>>>>>> scanned that can be downloaded from here: 
>>>>>>> https://frank.pocnet.net/other/sos/Philips_PW4232.pdf if that can 
>>>>>>> help you with the voltages for the drivers.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> /Martin
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Thursday, 11 February 2021 at 15:50:55 UTC+1 [email protected] 
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I meant dekatron in my last reply to gregebert.
>>>>>>>> I have 3 of these tubes, all apparently new (NOS).
>>>>>>>> Per your suggestion I tried the other two. One is almost perfect 
>>>>>>>> but flashes the 2 a bit when 8 is selected. The third is perfect 
>>>>>>>> unless I 
>>>>>>>> hold the tube in my fingers by the glass where I get lots of random 
>>>>>>>> flashing.
>>>>>>>> Remember that the really bad one works perfectly with the capacitor 
>>>>>>>> moved as I mentioned. I don't know if touching the glass affects it.
>>>>>>>>   More later, I will be away this morning.  
>>>>>>>> Peter.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 2:10 AM Dekatron42 <[email protected]> 
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Have you tried the circuit in the J.B Dance book below? Here they 
>>>>>>>>> use a center tapped transformer and also a much lower value 
>>>>>>>>> capacitor, only 
>>>>>>>>> 33nF versus 250nF in your circuit - I've only evere seen 33nF used in 
>>>>>>>>> real 
>>>>>>>>> instruments using these indicators.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Quite a few of the Z550M/ZM1050 are broken internally, I have a 
>>>>>>>>> box of them, and that seems to be due to the welding of the internal 
>>>>>>>>> parts 
>>>>>>>>> coming loose when shaken or hit hard (the same problem exists with 
>>>>>>>>> the 
>>>>>>>>> B9012/NL9012 tubes - I have a few broken ones of those too with 
>>>>>>>>> internal 
>>>>>>>>> pieces that have come loose) - sometimes you can hear these loose 
>>>>>>>>> pieces if 
>>>>>>>>> you shake the tube very carefully close to your ear. What usually 
>>>>>>>>> happens 
>>>>>>>>> is that a rather large round center piece comes loose and in the 
>>>>>>>>> worst case 
>>>>>>>>> shortens some of the electrodes but usually only makes it hard or 
>>>>>>>>> impossible to get all digits to light up poperly and some of them 
>>>>>>>>> trigger 
>>>>>>>>> easier than others due to the distances between electrodes are 
>>>>>>>>> differing, 
>>>>>>>>> shaking the tube a little moves that effect around so other digits 
>>>>>>>>> will 
>>>>>>>>> start to work and vice versa.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> /Martin
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> [image: JBDance-Z550M.JPG]
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Thursday, 11 February 2021 at 06:02:24 UTC+1 gregebert wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> If you have an isolation transformer, can you put a scope on the 
>>>>>>>>>> cathode line to verify the ripple is not excessive ? Rk and Ck 
>>>>>>>>>> create an RC 
>>>>>>>>>> filter around 77Hz, and the line is 50-60Hz, so there could be some 
>>>>>>>>>> ripple.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> On Wednesday, February 10, 2021 at 8:26:51 PM UTC-8 
>>>>>>>>>> [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> I tried varying it with absolutely no effect. It runs perfectly 
>>>>>>>>>>> at 5v with the capacitor moved to the other side of the resistor. 
>>>>>>>>>>> However I 
>>>>>>>>>>> was clocking slowly. It may not run at spec speed. I seem to 
>>>>>>>>>>> remember 
>>>>>>>>>>> reading of using 5 to 8 volts for the logic.
>>>>>>>>>>> The data sheet shows the following which I'm inclined to 
>>>>>>>>>>> believe. I will try Ck directly on the pins tomorrow. Someone must 
>>>>>>>>>>> have tried this circuit.
>>>>>>>>>>> [image: 8453 Cct.JPG]
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> On Wed, Feb 10, 2021 at 11:12 PM gregebert <[email protected]> 
>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> I suspect the differential voltage between lit vs non-lit 
>>>>>>>>>>>> numerals is too low. The CMOS device is basically driving grids to 
>>>>>>>>>>>> determine which cathode will be illuminated. I've seen similar 
>>>>>>>>>>>> behavior 
>>>>>>>>>>>> with an A-101 dekatron. What voltage are you using for VDD ? Is it 
>>>>>>>>>>>> 8V as 
>>>>>>>>>>>> indicated on the schematic, or a more-conventional 5V ?
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> On Wednesday, February 10, 2021 at 7:22:25 PM UTC-8 
>>>>>>>>>>>> [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> I think you are wrong. The literature explains this tube is 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> designed to be driven by 5v logic and it does work. The steering 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> electrodes 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> are close to the Anode voltage which is grounded and only 5v 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> pulses (square 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> waves) are needed. Note all the cathodes are connected together 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> internally.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> I got to thinking about the C1 position. The data sheet shows 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> it per my schematic and I can't believe they made that mistake 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> several 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> times including the hand drawn notes of the designer. I think 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> maybe I 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> needed to have C1 directly on the socket pins and will try that 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> tomorrow.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Thanks for your interest though but you are thinking Nixie 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Tubes, this is a special tube with steering electrodes..
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Wed, Feb 10, 2021 at 9:42 PM chuckrr <[email protected]> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> That schematic is so wrong in so many ways.   You need high 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> voltage transistors operating the tube cathodes.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> You need high resistance drving the transistor bases.   You 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> need a buffer such as 4049 or 4050 driving the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> resistor, which in turn drives the transistor base.  Only 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> then would I dare to use the 4028....to operate the buffer, 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> which in turn 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> operates the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> transistor base via appropriate high resistance.  That is the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> only sure fire way I know of to attain noise-free performance 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> from CMOS 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> logic
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> driving cold cathode tubes.   That schematic there is a noisy 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> deal.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ---- Original Message ----
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> From: "peter bunge" <[email protected]>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Sent: 2/10/2021 8:15:21 PM
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> To: "neonixie-l" <[email protected]>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Subject: [neonixie-l] 8453/Z550M erratic
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Using the schematic from the data sheet
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> [image: 8453 Circuit.jpg]
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> This works with the count moving around but other numbers 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> flash erratically, especially close to the number that is 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> supposed to be 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> lit.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> *When I moved  the bottom of C1 to the other side of R1 it 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> works perfectly.  It is rock steady and does not care about line 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> voltage or 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the 5v supply (shown above as 8v but used at 5v)*
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> If this is an error it is continued through all the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> documentation and is consistent. Changing the value of C1 up and 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> down by 10 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> had little effect but a smaller C1 helps a bit. My Rst are all 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> directly on 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the socket pins and the wires are all about 5 inches long.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I have varied the line voltage with little effect. 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Any suggestions???
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
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