Nice that it works!

My understanding is that they need rectified AC, with just a little 
smoothing so as not to make it a pure DC voltage, as they extinguish during 
the portion of the voltage when it is to low to maintain the glow, and they 
are re-ignited when the voltage rise again as long as a trigger electrode 
has the correct voltage to initiate a glow, much like a thyratron.

Maybe you can find the reason for it working now compared to earlier 
failures if you check the voltage across the Anode-Cathode-Ignition 
electrode with an oscilloscope?

I've also had some problems with CMOS ic's when I have had poor, or no, 
connection to VCC/GND on the power pins - the circuit worked quite well 
until I touched some pins.

/Martin

On Thursday, 11 February 2021 at 21:50:49 UTC+1 [email protected] wrote:

> I have solved the problem but I don't understand why.
> Having tried all the suggestions except this, I went to a full wave 
> rectifier. It is not quite the same as the data sheet but does the same 
> thing.
> It also has the capacitor connected per the data sheet, the same as my 
> half wave circuit that did not work.
> This is rock solid with no indication of any other flickering. I am using 
> the first (worst) tube. Touching the glass has no effect.
> Apparently the tube does not like half wave. Perhaps it was my 1N4007 
> diode? They can switch too fast and maybe it needed a snubber.
> I also tried DC from a variable regulated power supply (HP 6448B up to 600 
> [email protected] amp, and no, I did not go that far). That locked the display on 
> one digit. The data sheet says it needs rectified line, not DC.
> I am running my tests from an HP supply for the 5v and an isolation 
> transformer driven by a Variac for the AC so I have full control of all 
> voltages. 
> This is my final schematic. It is driven by a PIC with parallel connectors 
> for each display. I used a PIC to generate the BCD because CMOS would not 
> drive the three 74141 for the Nixies. The PIC counts up and down at varying 
> speeds which would have been more difficult with CMOS.
> [image: 8453 Circuit.jpg]
>
>
>
> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 10:33 AM Dekatron42 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Touching the glass means that you get a capacitive coupling which will 
>> upset them somewhat, there was a special socket made for this by Philips 
>> which has a partial metal screen surrounding the tube. The socket is 
>> nicknamed "der Kuss" , "The kiss", due to its form. I couldn't find a photo 
>> on the Internet now but I know it exists as I have some in my storage and 
>> in an instrument that uses them. That instrument is called PW4261 Timer, 
>> some photos of the externals can be found on the Internet. On this socket 
>> all of the resistors are mounted flush to the pins to minimize the 
>> distance, but the capacitors and power supply is mounted some 40cm from the 
>> tubes themselves, likewise there are long wires to the drivers.
>>
>> You can also have a look at the manual for the PW4231 which I scanned 
>> that can be downloaded from here: 
>> https://frank.pocnet.net/other/sos/Philips_PW4232.pdf if that can help 
>> you with the voltages for the drivers.
>>
>> /Martin
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, 11 February 2021 at 15:50:55 UTC+1 [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>> I meant dekatron in my last reply to gregebert.
>>> I have 3 of these tubes, all apparently new (NOS).
>>> Per your suggestion I tried the other two. One is almost perfect but 
>>> flashes the 2 a bit when 8 is selected. The third is perfect unless I hold 
>>> the tube in my fingers by the glass where I get lots of random flashing.
>>> Remember that the really bad one works perfectly with the capacitor 
>>> moved as I mentioned. I don't know if touching the glass affects it.
>>>   More later, I will be away this morning.  
>>> Peter.
>>>
>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 2:10 AM Dekatron42 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Have you tried the circuit in the J.B Dance book below? Here they use a 
>>>> center tapped transformer and also a much lower value capacitor, only 33nF 
>>>> versus 250nF in your circuit - I've only evere seen 33nF used in real 
>>>> instruments using these indicators.
>>>>
>>>> Quite a few of the Z550M/ZM1050 are broken internally, I have a box of 
>>>> them, and that seems to be due to the welding of the internal parts coming 
>>>> loose when shaken or hit hard (the same problem exists with the 
>>>> B9012/NL9012 tubes - I have a few broken ones of those too with internal 
>>>> pieces that have come loose) - sometimes you can hear these loose pieces 
>>>> if 
>>>> you shake the tube very carefully close to your ear. What usually happens 
>>>> is that a rather large round center piece comes loose and in the worst 
>>>> case 
>>>> shortens some of the electrodes but usually only makes it hard or 
>>>> impossible to get all digits to light up poperly and some of them trigger 
>>>> easier than others due to the distances between electrodes are differing, 
>>>> shaking the tube a little moves that effect around so other digits will 
>>>> start to work and vice versa.
>>>>
>>>> /Martin
>>>>
>>>> [image: JBDance-Z550M.JPG]
>>>>
>>>> On Thursday, 11 February 2021 at 06:02:24 UTC+1 gregebert wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> If you have an isolation transformer, can you put a scope on the 
>>>>> cathode line to verify the ripple is not excessive ? Rk and Ck create an 
>>>>> RC 
>>>>> filter around 77Hz, and the line is 50-60Hz, so there could be some 
>>>>> ripple.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Wednesday, February 10, 2021 at 8:26:51 PM UTC-8 [email protected] 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I tried varying it with absolutely no effect. It runs perfectly at 5v 
>>>>>> with the capacitor moved to the other side of the resistor. However I 
>>>>>> was 
>>>>>> clocking slowly. It may not run at spec speed. I seem to remember 
>>>>>> reading 
>>>>>> of using 5 to 8 volts for the logic.
>>>>>> The data sheet shows the following which I'm inclined to believe. I 
>>>>>> will try Ck directly on the pins tomorrow. Someone must have tried this 
>>>>>> circuit.
>>>>>> [image: 8453 Cct.JPG]
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Wed, Feb 10, 2021 at 11:12 PM gregebert <[email protected]> 
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I suspect the differential voltage between lit vs non-lit numerals 
>>>>>>> is too low. The CMOS device is basically driving grids to determine 
>>>>>>> which 
>>>>>>> cathode will be illuminated. I've seen similar behavior with an A-101 
>>>>>>> dekatron. What voltage are you using for VDD ? Is it 8V as indicated on 
>>>>>>> the 
>>>>>>> schematic, or a more-conventional 5V ?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Wednesday, February 10, 2021 at 7:22:25 PM UTC-8 
>>>>>>> [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I think you are wrong. The literature explains this tube is 
>>>>>>>> designed to be driven by 5v logic and it does work. The steering 
>>>>>>>> electrodes 
>>>>>>>> are close to the Anode voltage which is grounded and only 5v pulses 
>>>>>>>> (square 
>>>>>>>> waves) are needed. Note all the cathodes are connected together 
>>>>>>>> internally.
>>>>>>>> I got to thinking about the C1 position. The data sheet shows it 
>>>>>>>> per my schematic and I can't believe they made that mistake several 
>>>>>>>> times 
>>>>>>>> including the hand drawn notes of the designer. I think maybe I needed 
>>>>>>>> to 
>>>>>>>> have C1 directly on the socket pins and will try that tomorrow.
>>>>>>>> Thanks for your interest though but you are thinking Nixie Tubes, 
>>>>>>>> this is a special tube with steering electrodes..
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Wed, Feb 10, 2021 at 9:42 PM chuckrr <[email protected]> 
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> That schematic is so wrong in so many ways.   You need high 
>>>>>>>>> voltage transistors operating the tube cathodes.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> You need high resistance drving the transistor bases.   You need a 
>>>>>>>>> buffer such as 4049 or 4050 driving the
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> resistor, which in turn drives the transistor base.  Only then 
>>>>>>>>> would I dare to use the 4028....to operate the buffer, which in turn 
>>>>>>>>> operates the
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> transistor base via appropriate high resistance.  That is the only 
>>>>>>>>> sure fire way I know of to attain noise-free performance from CMOS 
>>>>>>>>> logic
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> driving cold cathode tubes.   That schematic there is a noisy deal.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> ---- Original Message ----
>>>>>>>>> From: "peter bunge" <[email protected]>
>>>>>>>>> Sent: 2/10/2021 8:15:21 PM
>>>>>>>>> To: "neonixie-l" <[email protected]>
>>>>>>>>> Subject: [neonixie-l] 8453/Z550M erratic
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Using the schematic from the data sheet
>>>>>>>>> [image: 8453 Circuit.jpg]
>>>>>>>>> This works with the count moving around but other numbers flash 
>>>>>>>>> erratically, especially close to the number that is supposed to be 
>>>>>>>>> lit.
>>>>>>>>> *When I moved  the bottom of C1 to the other side of R1 it works 
>>>>>>>>> perfectly.  It is rock steady and does not care about line voltage or 
>>>>>>>>> the 
>>>>>>>>> 5v supply (shown above as 8v but used at 5v)*
>>>>>>>>> If this is an error it is continued through all the documentation 
>>>>>>>>> and is consistent. Changing the value of C1 up and down by 10 had 
>>>>>>>>> little 
>>>>>>>>> effect but a smaller C1 helps a bit. My Rst are all directly on the 
>>>>>>>>> socket 
>>>>>>>>> pins and the wires are all about 5 inches long.
>>>>>>>>> I have varied the line voltage with little effect. 
>>>>>>>>> Any suggestions???
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> --
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