Hi Barak,
Two power supplies makes it WAY more complicated than that.
You might want to check with Mike at Sytek and see if he will trade
your power supplies for an upgraded one that will run the whole
console. Otherwise, we have some talking to do...
I will send the NL-8 pin-out when I get a chance to look for it.
best,
Ike
> From: [email protected]
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: NEOTEK: phase meter
> Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2010 08:30:03 +0100
>
> ike hi,
> as you said, i do have a double psu so i'll try this (caps on mixer
> board side) suggestion as well .
> by the way, could you mail me the pinout for an NL-connector?
> thx again,
> Barak
> On Jan 10, 2010, at 1:04 AM, Ike Zimbel wrote:
>
> > Hi Barak,
> > Answers in BLUE, below:
> >
> > BARAK KOREN wrote:
> >> hi all,
> >> i own a neotek elite 40 channel from 1986.
> >> i miss a phase meter in the middle , does anybody knows how i can
> >> get one? I don't know if Neotek ever made one. You may need an
> >> external one or an old oscilliscope set on the X-Y mode.
> >> also looking for moving faders, uptown/GML/ whatever is
> >> working .... Good luck. I'm hearing that a lot of these systems
are
> >> VERY un-supported these days. Jump on in anyone that knows
otherwise.
> >> i am working on refurbishing the console, witch suffers from a
lot
> >> of contact problems on all switches... the plan is to give it a
> >> treat in an ultrasonic bath. anybody have experience with putting
> >> a whole channel strip in these ultrasonic bath? I'm leary of this
> >> myself. I once had a tutorial in the process by a colleague
whom I
> >> trust, and who had done it often. It's a very labour intensive
> >> process, and VERY time sensitive, in that if you leave the module
> >> in the bath too long it will start to strip plating off contacts
> >> etc. This was in regards to a console job that I was bidding on.
> >> The job went to someone else, and I heard from my colleague
that it
> >> did not go well. I have had very good luck with CAIG F-5 spray
into
> >> the pots and switches. If you absolutely have to replace the
> >> switches, make SURE that you have a proper and effective de-
> >> soldering tool to get the switches out with NO FORCE
whatsoever. I
> >> have run across some re-switched Elite modules that were very
> >> nicely damaged by the plated through holes being pulled out along
> >> with the switch. Also, if you take up a whole switch bank, make
> >> sure the Kapton tape is not damaged in the process...it is
there to
> >> keep the switch mounts from shorting some traces on the circuit
> >> board below.
> >> another problem i have is a ground loop in the mixer resulting
in a
> >> 50Hz hum . the channels will be muted and master +10 DB,
monitoring
> >> +10 DB , as soon as i start switching channels on (with faders
> >> down) the hum will appear and will sum all channels.
> >> i have checked the power supply and have ordered new components
for
> >> the recap, but the problem still arrives from the mixers
grounding
> >> method.
> >> if you're familiar with the grounding infra structure of this
> >> console please tip me. It has been my experience that 50/60hz hum
> >> is often from the PS having no connection to the AC (chassis)
> >> ground. The only connections to chassis ground in the PS-3 are
> >> through a pair of 2nf capacitors, C-101 in the 48v section and
> >> C-126 in the +/-18v section. These connect through steel "L"
> >> brackets that are screwed to the circuit board on one end, and
into
> >> the front panel (C-101) and Left hand heat sink (C-126) on the
> >> other, respectively. I suggest that you check these screws to
make
> >> sure they are tight. As well, loosen, and then re-tighten then 12
> >> Phillips head screws that hold the front and rear panels to the
> >> heat sinks. It doesn't hurt to spray a little contact cleaner in
> >> the gap when they are loose.
> > At the console end, there are a few things to check, too.
> > 1st, if the power supply connection is through one of the awful
> > plastic CPC connectors that most 1986 vintage consoles (that I've
> > seen, anyway) use,
> > get rid of it. A cheap and effective replacement is mating pair of
> > Neutrik NL-8 Speakon connectors. I have a pin-out for this
> > somewhere, if you are interested.
> > 2nd, make sure that all the 0 volt lines from the PS connector
> > are grounded to the frame.
> > 3rd, consoles of this vintage had a ground strap that went from
> > the point where the PS grounds to the frame to the motherboard,
> > where it is attached with a nut and bolt. Make sure these
> > connections are tight. It may be necessary to connect an external
> > ground wire to the ground lug on the other side of this point.
> > Finally, with regard to the wiring of the console, I'm with Tom
> > Bethel on the "never had a problem" front. The Elites that I have
> > been involved in the installation of have all had the "one end
only"
> > grounding scheme in effect. That is, the shield of the cables
> > (excluding the Mic inputs) would be left un-terminated at one end.
> > Good luck, and let us know how things work out.
> > Best,
> > Ike
> >> thanx
> >> Barak, they call me dude ...
> >>
> >> ------
> >>
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> >>
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> >>
> >> Thanks.
> >>
> >>
> >
> > --
> > Ike Zimbel
> > Zimbel Audio Productions Ltd.
> > Toronto
> > 416-720-0887
> > "Studio House Calls" - Repairs and upgrades to analog audio
> > equipment including: AMEK, Allen & Heath, Neve, Neotek, MCI,
> > Soundcraft and more.
> > www.zimbelaudio.com
> >
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> > .
> >
> > The Neotek list is lovingly hosted by Catapult Web. Remember that
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> > forwarded to all subscribers.
> >
> > Vive Le Neotek!
> >
> > Thanks.
>
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>
> View the list online at: http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
>
> You can unsubscribe at anytime by sending an email to mailto:[email protected]
with "unsubscribe neotek" in the message body. If you have any
difficulties, or questions --please send an email to mailto:[email protected]
.
>
> The Neotek list is lovingly hosted by Catapult Web. Remember that
any message or reply sent to the list will be automatically
forwarded to all subscribers.
>
> Vive Le Neotek!
>
> Thanks.
