Hi Barak,
A couple of other things...does this desk have one or two power
supplies? Most 40 channel desks of that vintage had two, and the way
they were implemented was not good and needs to be changed.
If / when you re-do the PS connection at the board end, it's a good
idea to put in some de-coupling caps on the supply voltages where they
come into the console. About 4700-5600uf at 35-50 volts is good for the
+/-18v rails (two caps total), 1,000uf / 50v for the -25v rail, 100uf /
100v for the +48v rail. The 36 volt rail is kind of optional but use at
least a 50v cap, preferably 63v if you put something across it.
Best,
ike
BARAK KOREN wrote:
ike hi,
i've started first with recapping the psu as phase 1. phase 2 will be
digging the console side , this info is very helpful and i'll keep you
informed.
regarding these balancing cards, i'll be interested but first things
first...i'll order after i finish the refurbishing since its hard to
estimate what the coasts would be...
thanx
Barak `koren
On Jan 10, 2010, at 1:04 AM, Ike Zimbel wrote:
Hi Barak,
Answers in BLUE, below:
BARAK KOREN wrote:
hi all,
i own a neotek elite 40 channel from 1986.
i miss a phase meter in the middle , does anybody knows how i can
get one? I don't know if Neotek ever made one. You may need an
external one or an old oscilliscope set on the X-Y mode.
also looking for moving faders, uptown/GML/ whatever is working ....
Good luck. I'm hearing that a lot of these systems are VERY
un-supported these days. Jump on in anyone that knows otherwise.
i am working on refurbishing the console, witch suffers from a lot
of contact problems on all switches... the plan is to give it a
treat in an ultrasonic bath. anybody have experience with putting a
whole channel strip in these ultrasonic bath? I'm leary of this
myself. I once had a tutorial in the process by a colleague whom I
trust, and who had done it often. It's a very labour intensive
process, and VERY time sensitive, in that if you leave the module in
the bath too long it will start to strip plating off contacts etc.
This was in regards to a console job that I was bidding on. The job
went to someone else, and I heard from my colleague that it did not
go well. I have had very good luck with CAIG F-5 spray into the pots
and switches. If you absolutely have to replace the switches, make
SURE that you have a proper and effective de-soldering tool to get
the switches out with NO FORCE whatsoever. I have run across some
re-switched Elite modules that were very nicely damaged by the
plated through holes being pulled out along with the switch. Also,
if you take up a whole switch bank, make sure the Kapton tape is not
damaged in the process...it is there to keep the switch mounts from
shorting some traces on the circuit board below.
another problem i have is a ground loop in the mixer resulting in a
50Hz hum . the channels will be muted and master +10 DB,
monitoring+10 DB , as soon as i start switching channels on (with
faders down) the hum will appear and will sum all channels.
i have checked the power supply and have ordered new components for
the recap, but the problem still arrives from the mixers grounding
method.
if you're familiar with the grounding infra structure of this
console please tip me. It has been my experience that 50/60hz hum is
often from the PS having no connection to the AC (chassis) ground.
The only connections to chassis ground in the PS-3 are through a
pair of 2nf capacitors, C-101 in the 48v section and C-126 in the
+/-18v section. These connect through steel "L" brackets that are
screwed to the circuit board on one end, and into the front panel
(C-101) and Left hand heat sink (C-126) on the other, respectively.
I suggest that you check these screws to make sure they are tight.
As well, loosen, and then re-tighten then 12 Phillips head screws
that hold the front and rear panels to the heat sinks. It doesn't
hurt to spray a little contact cleaner in the gap when they are loose.
At the console end, there are a few things to check, too.
1st, if the power supply connection is through one of the awful
plastic CPC connectors that most 1986 vintage consoles (that I've
seen, anyway) use,
get rid of it. A cheap and effective replacement is mating pair of
Neutrik NL-8 Speakon connectors. I have a pin-out for this somewhere,
if you are interested.
2nd, make sure that all the 0 volt lines from the PS connector
are grounded to the frame.
3rd, consoles of this vintage had a ground strap that went from
the point where the PS grounds to the frame to the motherboard, where
it is attached with a nut and bolt. Make sure these connections are
tight. It may be necessary to connect an external ground wire to the
ground lug on the other side of this point.
Finally, with regard to the wiring of the console, I'm with Tom
Bethel on the "never had a problem" front. The Elites that I have
been involved in the installation of have all had the "one end only"
grounding scheme in effect. That is, the shield of the cables
(excluding the Mic inputs) would be left un-terminated at one end.
Good luck, and let us know how things work out.
Best,
Ike
thanx
Barak, they call me dude ...
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Ike Zimbel
Zimbel Audio Productions Ltd.
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416-720-0887
"Studio House Calls" - Repairs and upgrades to analog audio equipment
including: AMEK, Allen & Heath, Neve, Neotek, MCI, Soundcraft and more.
www.zimbelaudio.com
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all subscribers.
Vive Le Neotek!
Thanks.
------
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message body. If you have any difficulties, or questions --please send
an email to mailto:[email protected].
The Neotek list is lovingly hosted by Catapult Web. Remember that any
message or reply sent to the list will be automatically forwarded to
all subscribers.
Vive Le Neotek!
Thanks.
--
Ike Zimbel
Zimbel Audio Productions Ltd.
Toronto
416-720-0887
"Studio House Calls" - Repairs and upgrades to analog audio equipment including:
AMEK, Allen & Heath, Neve, Neotek, MCI, Soundcraft and more.
www.zimbelaudio.com
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questions --please send an email to mailto:[email protected].
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or reply sent to the list will be automatically forwarded to all subscribers.
Vive Le Neotek!
Thanks.
