Don't bother with the Trac. Just do one fork at a time and don't switch parts, I always leave the rubber manifolds on the engine. Slide the box back and pop the carbs out. Any way that works for you. The "happy fork" build is a whole lot more complex. Be sure to address any rust on the tubes. I slide my hand up and down to feel for any tiny glitches that would tear a seal lip. Feel free to oil the tubes to cut friction when slipping the seals down. The PVC should be of an ID bigger than the tubes, an OD smaller than the lowers and long enough to extend beyond the collapsed tube. Works as well as real seal drivers. New seals are quite different from the originals. Follow the instructions that come with the new ones.Some parts are discarded. The tightly wound coils go at the top. (springs)
I'll add MI to places I don't want to live. I spent a winter living in a summer cottage in Buzzards Bay on Cape Cod. I learned that hell is not a hot burning place... --- On Thu, 2/12/09, fuzzball59 <[email protected]> wrote: From: fuzzball59 <[email protected]> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Hello from a new member, 1986 650SC owner. Throttle cable routing. To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]> Date: Thursday, February 12, 2009, 2:16 PM One question: does the TRAC anti-dive system have to be addressed during dis- and re- assembly in any way, or can I just ignore it? More cable woes last night, but easily rectified this time. Once I repacked all the wiring where it belonged inside the little springwire and plastic housing, I discovered the choke cable, this time, was binding. Simply a matter of re-routing it above said housing, just below the gauges. Which of course means, once again, remove the carburetor bank. I learned throughout this whole experience that one of the VERY LAST thing you do is put on the carb-to airbox rubber manifolds. By the way, I recall doing alot of head scratching last year about bridging the gap between the carbs and the airbox with these aforementioned apparently too-short rubber manifolds, until I discovered that the whole airbox SLIDES forward and back to accomodate just that. My Clymer manual failed to mention that---I just happened to notice the slotted hole in the frame and became clued in. I'm enjoying the concurrent weather discussion, guys. Up here in the very frozen north of Upper Peninsula Michigan, it's not the winter's severity that gets you down. It's the LENGTH of the freakin season. We get an extra month of winter before and after, just compared to lower Michigan. That's where the the saying comes from: "We have two seasons here: Winter and July." Or howabout "We have two seasons: Winter and month of rough sledding" I'm with Dennis however on my opinion of FLA or South Texas weather. I'd never go outside all summer. When it's cold you can at least put more clothes on. --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
