Thanks Dennis for your expertise and willingness to share it. Gonna take me awhile to get this done. I've saved your instructions as a text document. It'll be a couple of weeks til I get to phase two: make a happy front fork .
One question: does the TRAC anti-dive system have to be addressed during dis- and re- assembly in any way, or can I just ignore it? More cable woes last night, but easily rectified this time. Once I repacked all the wiring where it belonged inside the little springwire and plastic housing, I discovered the choke cable, this time, was binding. Simply a matter of re-routing it above said housing, just below the gauges. Which of course means, once again, remove the carburetor bank. I learned throughout this whole experience that one of the VERY LAST thing you do is put on the carb-to airbox rubber manifolds. By the way, I recall doing alot of head scratching last year about bridging the gap between the carbs and the airbox with these aforementioned apparently too-short rubber manifolds, until I discovered that the whole airbox SLIDES forward and back to accomodate just that. My Clymer manual failed to mention that---I just happened to notice the slotted hole in the frame and became clued in. I'm enjoying the concurrent weather discussion, guys. Up here in the very frozen north of Upper Peninsula Michigan, it's not the winter's severity that gets you down. It's the LENGTH of the freakin season. We get an extra month of winter before and after, just compared to lower Michigan. That's where the the saying comes from: "We have two seasons here: Winter and July." Or howabout "We have two seasons: Winter and month of rough sledding" I'm with Dennis however on my opinion of FLA or South Texas weather. I'd never go outside all summer. When it's cold you can at least put more clothes on. On Feb 12, 12:31 am, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote: > The OEM pads have a copper flake embedded and are quite dark. I like Ferrodo > pads. > Before you remove anything, loosen the fork caps at the top. Don't remove > them yet, just loosen them. They are much easier to deal with when the tubes > are still on the bike. Now remove the wheel, calipers, fender,etc. Remove the > tubes and invert and clamp one in a vise at the flats on the bottom. Use the > hammer impact to remove the socket bolt. Anything else will probably just > round out the bolt and you'll wind up drilling it out. Snap-On makes a really > great 3/8 X 8mm tool for the impact. Once the bolt is loose, turn the tube > right-side up and remove the bolt over a pan and allow the oil to run out. > Put the tube bottom in the pan and pump the fork to force out the rest. Now > clamp the tube at the flats again but this time right-side up. Remove the cap > and let the tube sink into the lower. Remove the springs. Next pry up the > dust seal. Use the internal "C" clip pliers to to remove the clip. Make sure > the lower is really tight in the vise and pull up > sharply on the tube. The Syntallic bushing will extract the seal and the > whole thing will slide out. Carefully clean any rust from the tube and flush > the lower. Replace the tube in the lower and thread in the socket bolt. Slide > a new seal down the tube and seat it with the PVC tube. A rubber mallet works > good to strike the PVC. Re-install the clip and dust seal. Drop in the > spring/s and fill with whatever you want to use for oil. I like a mix of five > parts ATF and one part SAE90 gear lube. 450cc right side, 465cc left side. > Place the cap on top of the spring and hold while you lift the tube up and > twist the tube to thread the cap on. > Enough for now. We'll get into making a happy font fork in the next > installment. > > --- On Wed, 2/11/09, fuzzball59 <[email protected]> wrote: > From: fuzzball59 <[email protected]> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Hello from a new member, 1986 650SC owner. > Throttle cable routing. > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]> > Date: Wednesday, February 11, 2009, 9:23 AM > > Yep, the front end has Come Together ; ) completely since last > weekend. How long does the pvc pipe have to be? I've got an impact > driver, but no 8mm bit. Have to check the hardware store for that---- > is that for the allen bolt at the bottom of the fork? > > Don't know if the brake pads are OEM---evidence would suggest they > might be, there's about 3/16 left, the bike has 14k on it and the p.o. > seemed to favor the rear brake---the shoes were just about gone. But > I'm going to go ahead and replace them anyway, I think they were > bathing in fork oil for a number of years while the bike sat in the > barn. Brakes and tires----I prefer bringing both up to snuff as a > matter of course. > > On Feb 11, 12:08 am, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:> Is the front > end all together now ? (not The Beatles tune) It helps if it > > is. You will need a spanner for the fork caps, a hammer impact with an 8mm > Allen > key and internal "C" clip pliers. A long piece of PVC tubing that > slips over the fork tube and, of course, new seals. The rest of the tools > needed > should be common. Are the pads OEM ? (sintered) They clean with Break Clean. > Get > back to me. > > > --- On Tue, 2/10/09, fuzzball59 <[email protected]> wrote: > > From: fuzzball59 <[email protected]> > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Hello from a new member, 1986 650SC owner. > > Throttle cable routing.> To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" > > <[email protected]>> Date: Tuesday, February 10, 2009, 8:43 AM > > > If you're offering the advice, my friend, I'm accepting. I've > got > > the > > vice and my Clymer Manual, time, motivation, and whiskey if necessary, > > for lubricating my dry parts, : ) > > Brake calipers both seem okay---- but the pads are thoroughly soaked > > in fork oil. > > > On Feb 9, 11:28 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:> > > The fork seals will be a good job. I can give you a sequence of operations > > > > > that will make it go fast. You will need some special tools (uncommon to > most > > homeowners) and a LARGE vise (mounted to a sturdy bench) They actually > come > > apart quite easy. How are the brake calipers ? Stuck ? > > > > --- On Mon, 2/9/09, fuzzball59 <[email protected]> wrote: > > > From: fuzzball59 <[email protected]> > > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Hello from a new member, 1986 650SC > owner. > > > Throttle cable routing.> To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" > > > <[email protected]>> Date: Monday, February 9, > 2009, 8:49 AM > > > > Undo-It-Yourself! That's good. I'll have to remember that. > One > > thing > > > I'll say for the p.o., the boxes he gave me along with the > rolling > > > chassis contained ALL the parts---nothing missing that he hadn't > told > > > me about. > > > I got the front end wiring done---- and lights, horns, fuse panel, > > > plastic & metal brackets and covers all back on where they > belong. > > > > Next project: replace the front fork seals and brake pads and then > > > just a couple little odds and ends. Then dare I say, test ride? > Ha---- > > > There's still two feet of snow outside my garage!!! > > > > On Feb 9, 1:10 am, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> > wrote:> > > > Dontcha' just love un-do-it yourself projects ? > > > > > --- On Sun, 2/8/09, fuzzball59 <[email protected]> > wrote: > > > > From: fuzzball59 <[email protected]> > > > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Hello from a new member, 1986 > 650SC > > owner. > > > > Throttle cable routing.> To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle > Lovers!" > > > > <[email protected]> > > > > > Date: Sunday, February 8, 2009, 7:30 AM > > > > > Thanks for your replies and advice, everyone. Problem is solved. > > > > Feeling kind of foolish about it too. But I'd rather share > my > > > > knowledge than withhold my ignorance. > > > > The throttle/switch assembly has a raised tab that fits into a > hole > > on > > > > the handlebar. If the tab doesn't engage the hole in the > handle > > bar, > > > > when the throttle assembly is tightened to the handlebar, the > > > > resulting uneven pressure cants the throttle sleeve to the point > that > > > > it binds on the handlebar. Elementary? It was this time around, > but > > > > last August it really had me stumped. > > > > Anyway, now I'm moving on to the headlight, horn mounting, > wire > > > > harness, brake-line junction, make-it all go back together when > I > > > > wasn't the one that took it apart task. > > > > > On Feb 6, 1:23 pm, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> > wrote:> > > I'd > > > > love you help, but I'm pretty sure the cables on my '83> > 650 > > aren't > > > > > running in their original path either. I don't have any > > binding > > > going > > > > on > > > > > though so possibly they're right. The only time I had > the > > > throttle > > > > sticking > > > > > was when I replaced the grips, I put the right one too > close to > > the > > > > controls > > > > > and it was rubbing. If you need new cables I got a new > choke > > cable > > > > > fromwww.motionpro.comandIseemtoremember they had throttle > cables > > too. > > > > There> are a several pics of my bike on my blog > > > > > athttp://munz.kicks-ass.net/nighthawk/. I don't remember any > pics > > > showing > > > > the > > > > > > routing but you're welcome to look. > > > > > > -Kyle > > > > > > On Fri, Feb 6, 2009 at 12:11 PM, fuzzball59 > > > > <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > > I sure could use some help---but let me start with a > bit of > > > > > > background. I like to take older bikes and give them a > new > > lease > > > on > > > > > > life. I love the older Hondas. I've worked on a 82 > > Goldwing, > > > a 82 > > > > > > Silverwing and my pride and joy a 1978 CB750 Four. Our > > short > > > riding > > > > > > season in Northern Michigan gives us plenty of shop > time > > and > > > this is > > > > > > what I do to stay in motorcycle mode for our long cold > > winters. > > > > > > > Last year I picked up an 86 650SC that the previous > owner > > had > > > taken > > > > > > apart and then ran out of motivation and money. > It's a > > very > > > cool > > > > bike > > > > > > and I'm looking forward to riding it this summer. > > > > > > > Last year's work included new/old gas tank, new > tires, > > new > > > clutch > > > > > > master and slave cylinder rebuild, new brake master > > cylinder > > > rebuild, > > > > > > new battery and new wiring harness. Yes, I'm > deeply > > into > > > this > > > > bike. > > > > > > This years work is hopefully more focused on > appearance > > issues, > > > other > > > > > > than the inevitable front fork seal replacement. > > > > > > > My big problem now is that the throttle > sticks---won't > > snap > > > > closed > > > > > > like it's supposed to. I did everything with the > cables > > > > you're > > > > > > supposed to. Took it out of the housing, checked it > for > > kinks, > > > > cleaned > > > > > > and lubed it, etc. I checked the return spring on the > > carburator > > > > bank: > > > > > > very strong closing action. Repeated installations and > > lubings > > > and > > > > > > cleanings and reassemblies would result in no > > change---still > > > > sticking. > > > > > > I started playing around and noticed that the position > of > > the > > > > > > handlebars has alot to do with whether the throttle > snaps > > back > > > closed > > > > > > or not. This leads me to be suspicious of my cable > routing. > > You > > > must > > > > > > recall I received this bike with the carbs and cables > in a > > box, > > > > > > therefore I'm not really sure exactly which way > the > > cables > > > are > > > > > > supposed to snake around the frame. So there's my > > question: > > > Can > > > > anyone > > > > > > describe in great detail where exactly the throttle > cables > > go on > > > > their > > > > > > way to the carbs? A description would be great. > Photographs > > > would be > > > > > > awesome! > > > > > > > Any help would be appreciated. I'm really > > "stuck" > > > on > > > > this problem and > > ... > > read more » --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. 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