The OEM pads have a copper flake embedded and are quite dark. I like Ferrodo pads. Before you remove anything, loosen the fork caps at the top. Don't remove them yet, just loosen them. They are much easier to deal with when the tubes are still on the bike. Now remove the wheel, calipers, fender,etc. Remove the tubes and invert and clamp one in a vise at the flats on the bottom. Use the hammer impact to remove the socket bolt. Anything else will probably just round out the bolt and you'll wind up drilling it out. Snap-On makes a really great 3/8 X 8mm tool for the impact. Once the bolt is loose, turn the tube right-side up and remove the bolt over a pan and allow the oil to run out. Put the tube bottom in the pan and pump the fork to force out the rest. Now clamp the tube at the flats again but this time right-side up. Remove the cap and let the tube sink into the lower. Remove the springs. Next pry up the dust seal. Use the internal "C" clip pliers to to remove the clip. Make sure the lower is really tight in the vise and pull up sharply on the tube. The Syntallic bushing will extract the seal and the whole thing will slide out. Carefully clean any rust from the tube and flush the lower. Replace the tube in the lower and thread in the socket bolt. Slide a new seal down the tube and seat it with the PVC tube. A rubber mallet works good to strike the PVC. Re-install the clip and dust seal. Drop in the spring/s and fill with whatever you want to use for oil. I like a mix of five parts ATF and one part SAE90 gear lube. 450cc right side, 465cc left side. Place the cap on top of the spring and hold while you lift the tube up and twist the tube to thread the cap on. Enough for now. We'll get into making a happy font fork in the next installment.
--- On Wed, 2/11/09, fuzzball59 <[email protected]> wrote: From: fuzzball59 <[email protected]> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Hello from a new member, 1986 650SC owner. Throttle cable routing. To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]> Date: Wednesday, February 11, 2009, 9:23 AM Yep, the front end has Come Together ; ) completely since last weekend. How long does the pvc pipe have to be? I've got an impact driver, but no 8mm bit. Have to check the hardware store for that---- is that for the allen bolt at the bottom of the fork? Don't know if the brake pads are OEM---evidence would suggest they might be, there's about 3/16 left, the bike has 14k on it and the p.o. seemed to favor the rear brake---the shoes were just about gone. But I'm going to go ahead and replace them anyway, I think they were bathing in fork oil for a number of years while the bike sat in the barn. Brakes and tires----I prefer bringing both up to snuff as a matter of course. On Feb 11, 12:08 am, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote: > Is the front end all together now ? (not The Beatles tune) It helps if it is. You will need a spanner for the fork caps, a hammer impact with an 8mm Allen key and internal "C" clip pliers. A long piece of PVC tubing that slips over the fork tube and, of course, new seals. The rest of the tools needed should be common. Are the pads OEM ? (sintered) They clean with Break Clean. Get back to me. > > --- On Tue, 2/10/09, fuzzball59 <[email protected]> wrote: > From: fuzzball59 <[email protected]> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Hello from a new member, 1986 650SC owner. Throttle cable routing. > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]> > Date: Tuesday, February 10, 2009, 8:43 AM > > If you're offering the advice, my friend, I'm accepting. I've got > the > vice and my Clymer Manual, time, motivation, and whiskey if necessary, > for lubricating my dry parts, : ) > Brake calipers both seem okay---- but the pads are thoroughly soaked > in fork oil. > > On Feb 9, 11:28 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:> The fork seals will be a good job. I can give you a sequence of operations > > that will make it go fast. You will need some special tools (uncommon to most > homeowners) and a LARGE vise (mounted to a sturdy bench) They actually come > apart quite easy. How are the brake calipers ? Stuck ? > > > --- On Mon, 2/9/09, fuzzball59 <[email protected]> wrote: > > From: fuzzball59 <[email protected]> > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Hello from a new member, 1986 650SC owner. > > Throttle cable routing.> To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" > > <[email protected]>> Date: Monday, February 9, 2009, 8:49 AM > > > Undo-It-Yourself! That's good. I'll have to remember that. One > thing > > I'll say for the p.o., the boxes he gave me along with the rolling > > chassis contained ALL the parts---nothing missing that he hadn't told > > me about. > > I got the front end wiring done---- and lights, horns, fuse panel, > > plastic & metal brackets and covers all back on where they belong. > > > Next project: replace the front fork seals and brake pads and then > > just a couple little odds and ends. Then dare I say, test ride? Ha---- > > There's still two feet of snow outside my garage!!! > > > On Feb 9, 1:10 am, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:> > > Dontcha' just love un-do-it yourself projects ? > > > > > > --- On Sun, 2/8/09, fuzzball59 <[email protected]> wrote: > > > From: fuzzball59 <[email protected]> > > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Hello from a new member, 1986 650SC > owner. > > > Throttle cable routing.> To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" > > > <[email protected]> > > > > Date: Sunday, February 8, 2009, 7:30 AM > > > > Thanks for your replies and advice, everyone. Problem is solved. > > > Feeling kind of foolish about it too. But I'd rather share my > > > knowledge than withhold my ignorance. > > > The throttle/switch assembly has a raised tab that fits into a hole > on > > > the handlebar. If the tab doesn't engage the hole in the handle > bar, > > > when the throttle assembly is tightened to the handlebar, the > > > resulting uneven pressure cants the throttle sleeve to the point that > > > it binds on the handlebar. Elementary? It was this time around, but > > > last August it really had me stumped. > > > Anyway, now I'm moving on to the headlight, horn mounting, wire > > > harness, brake-line junction, make-it all go back together when I > > > wasn't the one that took it apart task. > > > > On Feb 6, 1:23 pm, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote:> > I'd > > > love you help, but I'm pretty sure the cables on my '83> 650 > aren't > > > > running in their original path either. I don't have any > binding > > going > > > on > > > > though so possibly they're right. The only time I had the > > throttle > > > sticking > > > > was when I replaced the grips, I put the right one too close to > the > > > controls > > > > and it was rubbing. If you need new cables I got a new choke > cable > > > > fromwww.motionpro.comandIseemto remember they had throttle cables > too. > > > There> are a several pics of my bike on my blog > > > > athttp://munz.kicks-ass.net/nighthawk/. I don't remember any pics > > showing > > > the > > > > > routing but you're welcome to look. > > > > > -Kyle > > > > > On Fri, Feb 6, 2009 at 12:11 PM, fuzzball59 > > > <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > I sure could use some help---but let me start with a bit of > > > > > background. I like to take older bikes and give them a new > lease > > on > > > > > life. I love the older Hondas. I've worked on a 82 > Goldwing, > > a 82 > > > > > Silverwing and my pride and joy a 1978 CB750 Four. Our > short > > riding > > > > > season in Northern Michigan gives us plenty of shop time > and > > this is > > > > > what I do to stay in motorcycle mode for our long cold > winters. > > > > > > Last year I picked up an 86 650SC that the previous owner > had > > taken > > > > > apart and then ran out of motivation and money. It's a > very > > cool > > > bike > > > > > and I'm looking forward to riding it this summer. > > > > > > Last year's work included new/old gas tank, new tires, > new > > clutch > > > > > master and slave cylinder rebuild, new brake master > cylinder > > rebuild, > > > > > new battery and new wiring harness. Yes, I'm deeply > into > > this > > > bike. > > > > > This years work is hopefully more focused on appearance > issues, > > other > > > > > than the inevitable front fork seal replacement. > > > > > > My big problem now is that the throttle sticks---won't > snap > > > closed > > > > > like it's supposed to. I did everything with the cables > > > you're > > > > > supposed to. Took it out of the housing, checked it for > kinks, > > > cleaned > > > > > and lubed it, etc. I checked the return spring on the > carburator > > > bank: > > > > > very strong closing action. Repeated installations and > lubings > > and > > > > > cleanings and reassemblies would result in no > change---still > > > sticking. > > > > > I started playing around and noticed that the position of > the > > > > > handlebars has alot to do with whether the throttle snaps > back > > closed > > > > > or not. This leads me to be suspicious of my cable routing. > You > > must > > > > > recall I received this bike with the carbs and cables in a > box, > > > > > therefore I'm not really sure exactly which way the > cables > > are > > > > > supposed to snake around the frame. So there's my > question: > > Can > > > anyone > > > > > describe in great detail where exactly the throttle cables > go on > > > their > > > > > way to the carbs? A description would be great. Photographs > > would be > > > > > awesome! > > > > > > Any help would be appreciated. I'm really > "stuck" > > on > > > this problem and > > > > > it's a pretty dangerous issue too! > > > > > > Cheers, > > > > > > Paul > > > > > Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
