Rebuilding it's not too bad and isn't that expensive either. But bleeding it is a bear. Just because fluid comes out the other end without bubbles doesn't mean there can't be air in the line. I thought that was weird too. The walmarts here sell big plastic syringes by the gas cans that you're supposed to use to mix 2stroke oil. The key is they don't have a rubber tip on the plunger that hydraulic fluid will cause to swell and crack the syringe. I used one of those to force the fluid backwards through the line from the slave up to the master cylinder. If you have a second helper to keep an eye on the master cyl this helps. Make sure it doesn't run over or dry.
-Kyle On Fri, Oct 23, 2009 at 3:17 PM, bull city <[email protected]> wrote: > > so I took off the slave, lots of crust(dried fluid) on the outside of > the piston. The fluid has obviously been leaking for 6 years.. I > pumped the clutch a few times and the piston wouldn't budge. my > question is, should I try to get some more fluid in there to see if > the piston will move, or should I go ahead and try to rebuild it and > stop wasting time trying to save a few bucks? > > > > On Oct 23, 1:47 pm, DANNY DOLAN <[email protected]> wrote: > > you know you should check because some of those systems have certain > corks > > like i had a 81 kawi that you had to take the slave off and hold the > slave > > at 45degrees before it would bleed sucks bleed that thing ten times it > > wouldnt work after new clutch and then found that out tried it it worked > so > > sometimes man. a good thing also just because systems bled doesnt mean > > clutch springs arent stuck or rusted in one pos. good luck though its > hard > > without being there to look at it > > > > On Thu, Oct 22, 2009 at 8:23 PM, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> > wrote: > > > The clutch hydraulic system has air in it. Bleeding a clutch is no > fun. > > > Remove the slave cylinder and clamp it to prevent it from moving out. > Do not > > > compress it, just retain it. When it can't move outward, the air can be > > > bled. > > > # the clutch assembly is not like a brake, a brake will lock up, clutch > > > does not. By clamping it you give the piston something solid to push > against > > > and develop a pressure. > > > Try this first and if no success, get back to me. There are further > methods > > > to bleed off air. > > > > > --- On *Thu, 10/22/09, bull city <[email protected]>* wrote: > > > > > From: bull city <[email protected]> > > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] 83 550 clutch will not engage. > > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]> > > > Date: Thursday, October 22, 2009, 2:43 PM > > > > > Got the new bike and I am going through to get everything > > > functioning. > > > > > The brakes were locked, I took them off, pressed the piston back in, > > > flushed with new fluid and they seem to be doing well. I plan on > > > rebuilding them as soon as I get everything functioning. No point in > > > spending money on something before assessing the whole bike. > > > > > The clutch: the master cylinder was pretty much dry. The clutch wound > > > not engage and there was no resistance on the lever. So I flushed the > > > system with new brake fluid. The bleed hose was coming out clear and I > > > was getting a lot pushed out with every squeeze. But- I never got any > > > resistance on the lever, the clutch would still not engage. What > > > should I look for next? > > > > > I haven't started the bike yet and no battery is hooked up at the > > > moment. > > > > > Thanks- > > > --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
