Mr Clymer will lie to you and not even feel guilty about it.

-Kyle


On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 5:46 PM, <[email protected]> wrote:

>  Good Job!   Hope everything else goes much smoother.
>
> (The photo is My Dad & I trying to solve a signal problem with the
> incorrect Clymer schematic)
>
>  My Mom says, "smile for the picture"!
>
>
> Dec 31, 2009 05:20:44 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
> Crud!
>
> How do I attach a picture in a reply again (it doesn't seem so obvious
> - though i figured it out some months ago!!)?
>
> On Dec 31, 3:18 pm, oldschoolgwin wrote:
> > Houston is clapping – yikes that was a scary one.
> >
> > I ended up heating the fork tube with Mr. Propano and then cooling (in
> > theory – but effectiveness?) the top cap bolt with a can of compressed
> > office cleaner upside down (a good gusher).  Then cranked on it with a
> > 3 ft breaker bar about as hard as I could and it moved.
> >
> > It’s an ugly bolt now though!
> >
> > IMG_3534-40%.JPG
> >
> > On Dec 31, 7:46 am, stanley/ Randolph wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > > I would use engine oil.  It actually penetrates better.  Takes a little
> longer but works better.
> >
> > > Stanley
> >
> > > --- On Wed, 12/30/09, Kim Paddock wrote:
> >
> > > From: Kim Paddock
> > > Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
> > > To: [email protected]
> > > Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 1:59 PM
> >
> > > Hit it with a good penetrating oil and let it sit....that usually works
> for me.
> >
> > > From: Dennis Hammerl
> > > To: [email protected]
> > > Sent: Tue, December 29, 2009 11:23:57 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
> >
> > > I don't have much of an answer for you. Don't know how much I've put on
> 'em but it's been enough that two guys had to hold the bike from spinning on
> the center stand. That's with my 2' bar and 3' tube combo. 5' X 150lb
> weakling = ?  I wonder if it's cross threaded or just corroded on. If you
> got one off, you see that they are fine thread and have an O ring. i've
> heated some stuff like that (not a fork though) and then applied an ice cube
> to the cap to shrink it quickly. Could spray it with something cold too.
> Pulling on the socket while heating might do it. The socket would act as a
> heat sink and keep the cap cooler. If you can get another cap, you might
> have to crack off the top rim with a small chisel. (leave the hex) The rim
> is where the pressure is. Once off, unless cross threaded, it should back
> out easy. Good luck.
> >
> > > --- On Wed, 12/30/09, oldschoolgwin wrote:
> >
> > > From: oldschoolgwin
> > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
> > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!"
> > > Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 12:42 AM
> >
> > > Thanks Dennnis.  I managed to get a socket that grips it much better.
> > > In this case 27mm is the same as 1 1/16" (well actually 1 1/16' is
> > > just slightly smaller to my advantage).
> >
> > > This socket grips it much better but i've put at least 100 lbs on it
> > > and it won't budge.  The scary part is what will give first as i push
> > > harder - knowing the bolt head is not 100% to begin with - yikes.
> >
> > > I tried a propane torch and heated teh fork tube up to maybe 200-250F
> > > and applied the 100 ft-lbs - no luck.  Not sure if this would work
> > > since the alumninum bolt expands faster than the steel fork tube.
> >
> > > Is there any other method too try before just increasing torque?   How
> > > about an Impact gun - not sure if this would be effectitve on an
> > > aluminum hex head???
> >
> > > On Dec 27, 8:17 pm, Dennis Hammerl wrote:
> >
> > > > Well, first off it isn't 1 1/16". It's metric. The proper size 1/2"
> drive 6 point socket should do. I prefer the "flank-drive" variety because
> they apply contact in the middle of the flats. My personal choice is the
> Kowa brand (Japan). They have a rather pronounced "flank-drive" I leave the
> tubes in the fork and only loosen the top clamp. A 24" bar and a 3' tube
> gets most anything. Sometimes you need someone to hold the bike. check with
> any Jap bike dealers to see if any of their techs use Kowa sockets and try
> to borrow one. The chisel is the last resort cause I have to buy the
> replacement.
> >
> > > > --- On Sun, 12/27/09, oldschoolgwin wrote:
> >
> > > > From: oldschoolgwin
> > > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
> > > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!"
> > > > Date: Sunday, December 27, 2009, 9:36 PM
> >
> > > > Hi All.
> >
> > > > Well I'm installing new fork seals on my 83 650.
> >
> > > > The left fork tube cap is stuck and it appears it was a victim of
> some
> > > > previous shade tree mechanic with a 1 size fits all wrench - rounded
> > > > corners on that cap and not much left.
> >
> > > > Any ideas on how to ge this off.  A six point 1 1/16' socket doesn't
> > > > want to grip it enough to break it loose.
> >
> > > > I guess if worse comes to worse i could drill two 1/4" through holes
> > > > and make a pinned spanner to remove it - but that is just more effort
> > > > than i like.
> >
> > > > Anyone know any tricks? Chisel and hammer at the edge? Options are
> > > > looking so good!
> >
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