Well, Chevy named one "Nova" which means "no go" in Spanish. Not a great hit 
with those south of the border...




________________________________
From: Kyle Munz <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Thu, December 31, 2009 5:40:00 PM
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!

My mother-in-law drives one, I think about it every time she tries to pronounce 
it.

-Kyle 
-Sent from Houston, TX, United States 


On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 6:38 PM, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:

>Why would the Japanese ever name a car Corolla ? 
>Think about that awhile.
>
>--- On Thu, 12/31/09, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>From: Kyle Munz <[email protected]>
>>>>Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
>>To: [email protected]
>>Date: Thursday, December 31, 2009, 7:35 PM
>>
>>
>>
>>Well I'll stick with the Honda manuals with their mixed up L's and R's rather 
>>than Clymer with dead wrong wiring diagrams.
>>
>>-Kyle 
>>-Sent from Houston, TX, United States
>>
>>
>>
>>On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 6:16 PM, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>>>
>>>My understanding is Clymer manuals will no longer be published. They all got 
>>>jobs with the administration.
>>>
>>>
>>>--- On Thu, 12/31/09, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>From: Kyle Munz <[email protected]>
>>>>
>>>>Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
>>>>To: [email protected]
>>>>
>>>>>>>>Date: Thursday, December 31, 2009, 7:01 PM
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Mr Clymer will lie to you and not even feel guilty about it.
>>>>
>>>>-Kyle 
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 5:46 PM, <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>Good Job!   Hope everything else goes much smoother.
>>>>>
>>>>>(The photo is My Dad & I trying to solve a signal problem with the 
>>>>>incorrect Clymer schematic) 
>>>>>
>>>>>My Mom says, "smile for the picture"! 
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Dec 31, 2009 05:20:44 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>Crud!
>>>>>>
>>>>>>How do I attach a picture in a reply again (it doesn't seem so obvious
>>>>>>- though i figured it out some months ago!!)?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>On Dec 31, 3:18 pm, oldschoolgwin  wrote:
>>>>>>> Houston is clapping – yikes that was a scary one.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I ended up heating the fork tube with Mr. Propano and then cooling (in
>>>>>>> theory – but effectiveness?) the top cap bolt with a can of compressed
>>>>>>> office cleaner upside down (a good gusher).  Then cranked on it with a
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> 3 ft breaker bar about as hard as I could and it moved.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> It’s an ugly bolt now though!
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> IMG_3534-40%.JPG
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Dec 31, 7:46 am, stanley/ Randolph  wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > I would use engine oil.  It actually penetrates better.  Takes a 
>>>>>>> > little longer but works better.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > Stanley
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > --- On Wed, 12/30/09, Kim Paddock  wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > From: Kim Paddock 
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
>>>>>>> > To: [email protected]
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 1:59 PM
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > Hit it with a good penetrating oil and let it sit....that usually 
>>>>>>> > works for me.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > From: Dennis Hammerl 
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> > To: [email protected]
>>>>>>> > Sent: Tue, December 29, 2009 11:23:57 PM
>>>>>>> > Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > I don't have much of an answer for you. Don't know how much I've put 
>>>>>>> > on 'em but it's been enough that two guys had to hold the bike from 
>>>>>>> > spinning on the center stand. That's with my 2' bar and 3' tube 
>>>>>>> > combo. 5' X 150lb weakling = ?  I wonder if it's cross threaded or 
>>>>>>> > just corroded on. If you got one off, you see that they are fine 
>>>>>>> > thread and have an O ring. i've heated some stuff like that (not a 
>>>>>>> > fork though) and then applied an ice cube to the cap to shrink it 
>>>>>>> > quickly. Could spray it with something cold too. Pulling on the 
>>>>>>> > socket while heating might do it. The socket would act as a heat sink 
>>>>>>> > and keep the cap cooler. If you can get another cap, you might have 
>>>>>>> > to crack off the top rim with a small chisel. (leave the hex) The rim 
>>>>>>> > is where the pressure is. Once off, unless cross threaded, it should 
>>>>>>> > back out easy. Good luck.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > --- On Wed, 12/30/09, oldschoolgwin  wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > From: oldschoolgwin 
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
>>>>>>> > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" 
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 12:42 AM
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > Thanks Dennnis.  I managed to get a socket that grips it much better.
>>>>>>> > In this case 27mm is the same as 1 1/16" (well actually 1 1/16' is
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > just slightly smaller to my advantage).
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > This socket grips it much better but i've put at least 100 lbs on it
>>>>>>> > and it won't budge.  The scary part is what will give first as i push
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > harder - knowing the bolt head is not 100% to begin with - yikes.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > I tried a propane torch and heated teh fork tube up to maybe 200-250F
>>>>>>> > and applied the 100 ft-lbs - no luck.  Not sure if this would work
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > since the alumninum bolt expands faster than the steel fork tube.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > Is there any other method too try before just increasing torque?   How
>>>>>>> > about an Impact gun - not sure if this would be effectitve on an
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > aluminum hex head???
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > On Dec 27, 8:17 pm, Dennis Hammerl  wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > > Well, first off it isn't 1 1/16". It's metric. The proper size 1/2" 
>>>>>>> > > drive 6 point socket should do. I prefer the "flank-drive" variety 
>>>>>>> > > because they apply contact in the middle of the flats. My personal 
>>>>>>> > > choice is the Kowa brand (Japan). They have a rather pronounced 
>>>>>>> > > "flank-drive" I leave the tubes in the fork and only loosen the top 
>>>>>>> > > clamp. A 24" bar and a 3' tube gets most anything. Sometimes you 
>>>>>>> > > need someone to hold the bike. check with any Jap bike dealers to 
>>>>>>> > > see if any of their techs use Kowa sockets and try to borrow one. 
>>>>>>> > > The chisel is the last resort cause I have to buy the replacement.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > > --- On Sun, 12/27/09, oldschoolgwin  wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > > From: oldschoolgwin 
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
>>>>>>> > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" 
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > > Date: Sunday, December 27, 2009, 9:36 PM
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > > Hi All.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > > Well I'm installing new fork seals on my 83 650.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > > The left fork tube cap is stuck and it appears it was a victim of 
>>>>>>> > > some
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > > previous shade tree mechanic with a 1 size fits all wrench - rounded
>>>>>>> > > corners on that cap and not much left.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > > Any ideas on how to ge this off.  A six point 1 1/16' socket doesn't
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > > want to grip it enough to break it loose.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > > I guess if worse comes to worse i could drill two 1/4" through holes
>>>>>>> > > and make a pinned spanner to remove it - but that is just more 
>>>>>>> > > effort
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > > than i like.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > > Anyone know any tricks? Chisel and hammer at the edge? Options are
>>>>>>> > > looking so good!
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > > --
>>>>>>>
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>>>>>>
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>>>>>>
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>>>>>>>
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>>>>>>>>>>>>
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