My mother-in-law drives one, I think about it every time she tries to
pronounce it.

-Kyle
-Sent from Houston, TX, United States

On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 6:38 PM, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:

> Why would the Japanese ever name a car Corolla ?
> Think about that awhile.
>
> --- On *Thu, 12/31/09, Kyle Munz <[email protected]>* wrote:
>
>
> From: Kyle Munz <[email protected]>
> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
> To: [email protected]
> Date: Thursday, December 31, 2009, 7:35 PM
>
>
> Well I'll stick with the Honda manuals with their mixed up L's and R's
> rather than Clymer with dead wrong wiring diagrams.
>
> -Kyle
> -Sent from Houston, TX, United States
>
> On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 6:16 PM, Dennis Hammerl 
> <[email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]>
> > wrote:
>
>>  My understanding is Clymer manuals will no longer be published. They all
>> got jobs with the administration.
>>
>>
>> --- On *Thu, 12/31/09, Kyle Munz 
>> <[email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]>
>> >* wrote:
>>
>>
>> From: Kyle Munz <[email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]>
>> >
>> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
>> To: 
>> [email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]>
>> Date: Thursday, December 31, 2009, 7:01 PM
>>
>> Mr Clymer will lie to you and not even feel guilty about it.
>>
>> -Kyle
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 5:46 PM, 
>> <[email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]>
>> > wrote:
>>
>>>  Good Job! Hope everything else goes much smoother.
>>>
>>> (The photo is My Dad & I trying to solve a signal problem with the
>>> incorrect Clymer schematic)
>>>
>>> My Mom says, "smile for the picture"!
>>>
>>>
>>> Dec 31, 2009 05:20:44 PM, 
>>> [email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]>wrote:
>>>
>>>  Crud!
>>>
>>> How do I attach a picture in a reply again (it doesn't seem so obvious
>>> - though i figured it out some months ago!!)?
>>>
>>> On Dec 31, 3:18 pm, oldschoolgwin wrote:
>>> > Houston is clapping – yikes that was a scary one.
>>> >
>>> > I ended up heating the fork tube with Mr. Propano and then cooling (in
>>> > theory – but effectiveness?) the top cap bolt with a can of compressed
>>> > office cleaner upside down (a good gusher). Then cranked on it with a
>>> > 3 ft breaker bar about as hard as I could and it moved.
>>> >
>>> > It’s an ugly bolt now though!
>>> >
>>> > IMG_3534-40%.JPG
>>> >
>>> > On Dec 31, 7:46 am, stanley/ Randolph wrote:
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > > I would use engine oil. It actually penetrates better. Takes a little
>>> longer but works better.
>>> >
>>> > > Stanley
>>> >
>>> > > --- On Wed, 12/30/09, Kim Paddock wrote:
>>> >
>>> > > From: Kim Paddock
>>> > > Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
>>> > > To: 
>>> > > [email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]>
>>> > > Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 1:59 PM
>>> >
>>> > > Hit it with a good penetrating oil and let it sit....that usually
>>> works for me.
>>> >
>>> > > From: Dennis Hammerl
>>> > > To: 
>>> > > [email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]>
>>> > > Sent: Tue, December 29, 2009 11:23:57 PM
>>> > > Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
>>> >
>>> > > I don't have much of an answer for you. Don't know how much I've put
>>> on 'em but it's been enough that two guys had to hold the bike from spinning
>>> on the center stand. That's with my 2' bar and 3' tube combo. 5' X 150lb
>>> weakling = ? I wonder if it's cross threaded or just corroded on. If you got
>>> one off, you see that they are fine thread and have an O ring. i've heated
>>> some stuff like that (not a fork though) and then applied an ice cube to the
>>> cap to shrink it quickly. Could spray it with something cold too. Pulling on
>>> the socket while heating might do it. The socket would act as a heat sink
>>> and keep the cap cooler. If you can get another cap, you might have to crack
>>> off the top rim with a small chisel. (leave the hex) The rim is where the
>>> pressure is. Once off, unless cross threaded, it should back out easy. Good
>>> luck.
>>> >
>>> > > --- On Wed, 12/30/09, oldschoolgwin wrote:
>>> >
>>> > > From: oldschoolgwin
>>> > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
>>> > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!"
>>> > > Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 12:42 AM
>>> >
>>> > > Thanks Dennnis. I managed to get a socket that grips it much better.
>>> > > In this case 27mm is the same as 1 1/16" (well actually 1 1/16' is
>>> > > just slightly smaller to my advantage).
>>> >
>>> > > This socket grips it much better but i've put at least 100 lbs on it
>>> > > and it won't budge. The scary part is what will give first as i push
>>> > > harder - knowing the bolt head is not 100% to begin with - yikes.
>>> >
>>> > > I tried a propane torch and heated teh fork tube up to maybe 200-250F
>>> > > and applied the 100 ft-lbs - no luck. Not sure if this would work
>>> > > since the alumninum bolt expands faster than the steel fork tube.
>>> >
>>> > > Is there any other method too try before just increasing torque? How
>>> > > about an Impact gun - not sure if this would be effectitve on an
>>> > > aluminum hex head???
>>> >
>>> > > On Dec 27, 8:17 pm, Dennis Hammerl wrote:
>>> >
>>> > > > Well, first off it isn't 1 1/16". It's metric. The proper size 1/2"
>>> drive 6 point socket should do. I prefer the "flank-drive" variety because
>>> they apply contact in the middle of the flats. My personal choice is the
>>> Kowa brand (Japan). They have a rather pronounced "flank-drive" I leave the
>>> tubes in the fork and only loosen the top clamp. A 24" bar and a 3' tube
>>> gets most anything. Sometimes you need someone to hold the bike. check with
>>> any Jap bike dealers to see if any of their techs use Kowa sockets and try
>>> to borrow one. The chisel is the last resort cause I have to buy the
>>> replacement.
>>> >
>>> > > > --- On Sun, 12/27/09, oldschoolgwin wrote:
>>> >
>>> > > > From: oldschoolgwin
>>> > > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
>>> > > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!"
>>> > > > Date: Sunday, December 27, 2009, 9:36 PM
>>> >
>>> > > > Hi All.
>>> >
>>> > > > Well I'm installing new fork seals on my 83 650.
>>> >
>>> > > > The left fork tube cap is stuck and it appears it was a victim of
>>> some
>>> > > > previous shade tree mechanic with a 1 size fits all wrench -
>>> rounded
>>> > > > corners on that cap and not much left.
>>> >
>>> > > > Any ideas on how to ge this off. A six point 1 1/16' socket doesn't
>>> > > > want to grip it enough to break it loose.
>>> >
>>> > > > I guess if worse comes to worse i could drill two 1/4" through
>>> holes
>>> > > > and make a pinned spanner to remove it - but that is just more
>>> effort
>>> > > > than i like.
>>> >
>>> > > > Anyone know any tricks? Chisel and hammer at the edge? Options are
>>> > > > looking so good!
>>> >
>>> > > > --
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