Really? My shop manual has the wrong schematics for the spark plug wire hook 
up. That's O.K...I made notes....HotrodMamma.




________________________________
From: Kyle Munz <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Thu, December 31, 2009 5:01:37 PM
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!

Mr Clymer will lie to you and not even feel guilty about it.

-Kyle 



On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 5:46 PM, <[email protected]> wrote:

>
>
>
>>Good Job!   Hope everything else goes much smoother.
>
>(The photo is My Dad & I trying to solve a signal problem with the incorrect 
>Clymer schematic) 
>
> My Mom says, "smile for the picture"! 
>
>
>Dec 31, 2009 05:20:44 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
>>>Crud!
>>
>>How do I attach a picture in a reply again (it doesn't seem so obvious
>>- though i figured it out some months ago!!)?
>>
>>
>>On Dec 31, 3:18 pm, oldschoolgwin  wrote:
>>> Houston is clapping – yikes that was a scary one.
>>>>>
>>> I ended up heating the fork tube with Mr. Propano and then cooling (in
>>> theory – but effectiveness?) the top cap bolt with a can of compressed
>>> office cleaner upside down (a good gusher).  Then cranked on it with a
>>>>> 3 ft breaker bar about as hard as I could and it moved.
>>>
>>> It’s an ugly bolt now though!
>>>
>>> IMG_3534-40%.JPG
>>>
>>
>>> On Dec 31, 7:46 am, stanley/ Randolph  wrote:
>>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> > I would use engine oil.  It actually penetrates better.  Takes a little 
>>> > longer but works better.
>>>
>>> > Stanley
>>>
>>> > --- On Wed, 12/30/09, Kim Paddock  wrote:
>>>>>
>>> > From: Kim Paddock 
>>
>>> > Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
>>> > To: [email protected]
>>>>> > Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 1:59 PM
>>>
>>> > Hit it with a good penetrating oil and let it sit....that usually works 
>>> > for me.
>>>
>>> > From: Dennis Hammerl 
>>
>>>>> > To: [email protected]
>>> > Sent: Tue, December 29, 2009 11:23:57 PM
>>> > Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
>>>>>
>>> > I don't have much of an answer for you. Don't know how much I've put on 
>>> > 'em but it's been enough that two guys had to hold the bike from spinning 
>>> > on the center stand. That's with my 2' bar and 3' tube combo. 5' X 150lb 
>>> > weakling = ?  I wonder if it's cross threaded or just corroded on. If you 
>>> > got one off, you see that they are fine thread and have an O ring. i've 
>>> > heated some stuff like that (not a fork though) and then applied an ice 
>>> > cube to the cap to shrink it quickly. Could spray it with something cold 
>>> > too. Pulling on the socket while heating might do it. The socket would 
>>> > act as a heat sink and keep the cap cooler. If you can get another cap, 
>>> > you might have to crack off the top rim with a small chisel. (leave the 
>>> > hex) The rim is where the pressure is. Once off, unless cross threaded, 
>>> > it should back out easy. Good luck.
>>>>>
>>> > --- On Wed, 12/30/09, oldschoolgwin  wrote:
>>>
>>> > From: oldschoolgwin 
>>
>>> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
>>> > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" 
>>
>>> > Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 12:42 AM
>>>
>>> > Thanks Dennnis.  I managed to get a socket that grips it much better.
>>> > In this case 27mm is the same as 1 1/16" (well actually 1 1/16' is
>>>>> > just slightly smaller to my advantage).
>>>
>>> > This socket grips it much better but i've put at least 100 lbs on it
>>> > and it won't budge.  The scary part is what will give first as i push
>>>>> > harder - knowing the bolt head is not 100% to begin with - yikes.
>>>
>>> > I tried a propane torch and heated teh fork tube up to maybe 200-250F
>>> > and applied the 100 ft-lbs - no luck.  Not sure if this would work
>>>>> > since the alumninum bolt expands faster than the steel fork tube.
>>>
>>> > Is there any other method too try before just increasing torque?   How
>>> > about an Impact gun - not sure if this would be effectitve on an
>>>>> > aluminum hex head???
>>>
>>
>>> > On Dec 27, 8:17 pm, Dennis Hammerl  wrote:
>>>
>>> > > Well, first off it isn't 1 1/16". It's metric. The proper size 1/2" 
>>> > > drive 6 point socket should do. I prefer the "flank-drive" variety 
>>> > > because they apply contact in the middle of the flats. My personal 
>>> > > choice is the Kowa brand (Japan). They have a rather pronounced 
>>> > > "flank-drive" I leave the tubes in the fork and only loosen the top 
>>> > > clamp. A 24" bar and a 3' tube gets most anything. Sometimes you need 
>>> > > someone to hold the bike. check with any Jap bike dealers to see if any 
>>> > > of their techs use Kowa sockets and try to borrow one. The chisel is 
>>> > > the last resort cause I have to buy the replacement.
>>>>>
>>> > > --- On Sun, 12/27/09, oldschoolgwin  wrote:
>>>
>>> > > From: oldschoolgwin 
>>
>>> > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
>>> > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" 
>>
>>> > > Date: Sunday, December 27, 2009, 9:36 PM
>>>
>>> > > Hi All.
>>>
>>> > > Well I'm installing new fork seals on my 83 650.
>>>
>>> > > The left fork tube cap is stuck and it appears it was a victim of some
>>>>> > > previous shade tree mechanic with a 1 size fits all wrench - rounded
>>> > > corners on that cap and not much left.
>>>
>>> > > Any ideas on how to ge this off.  A six point 1 1/16' socket doesn't
>>>>> > > want to grip it enough to break it loose.
>>>
>>> > > I guess if worse comes to worse i could drill two 1/4" through holes
>>> > > and make a pinned spanner to remove it - but that is just more effort
>>>>> > > than i like.
>>>
>>> > > Anyone know any tricks? Chisel and hammer at the edge? Options are
>>> > > looking so good!
>>>
>>> > > --
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