We spent 20 something years in Asia - try making sense of this - say  
the word London ('runden' and Rome 'lome'

On Dec 31, 2009, at 7:38 PM, Dennis Hammerl wrote:

> Why would the Japanese ever name a car Corolla ?
> Think about that awhile.
> --- On Thu, 12/31/09, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> From: Kyle Munz <[email protected]>
> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
> To: [email protected]
> Date: Thursday, December 31, 2009, 7:35 PM
>
> Well I'll stick with the Honda manuals with their mixed up L's and  
> R's rather than Clymer with dead wrong wiring diagrams.
>
> -Kyle
> -Sent from Houston, TX, United States
>
> On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 6:16 PM, Dennis Hammerl  
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> My understanding is Clymer manuals will no longer be published.  
> They all got jobs with the administration.
>
>
> --- On Thu, 12/31/09, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> From: Kyle Munz <[email protected]>
> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
> To: [email protected]
> Date: Thursday, December 31, 2009, 7:01 PM
>
> Mr Clymer will lie to you and not even feel guilty about it.
>
> -Kyle
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 5:46 PM, <[email protected]> wrote:
> Good Job! Hope everything else goes much smoother.
>
> (The photo is My Dad & I trying to solve a signal problem with the  
> incorrect Clymer schematic)
>
> My Mom says, "smile for the picture"!
>
>
> Dec 31, 2009 05:20:44 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> Crud!
>
> How do I attach a picture in a reply again (it doesn't seem so obvious
> - though i figured it out some months ago!!)?
>
> On Dec 31, 3:18 pm, oldschoolgwin wrote:
> > Houston is clapping – yikes that was a scary one.
> >
> > I ended up heating the fork tube with Mr. Propano and then  
> cooling (in
> > theory – but effectiveness?) the top cap bolt with a can of  
> compressed
> > office cleaner upside down (a good gusher). Then cranked on it  
> with a
> > 3 ft breaker bar about as hard as I could and it moved.
> >
> > It’s an ugly bolt now though!
> >
> > IMG_3534-40%.JPG
> >
> > On Dec 31, 7:46 am, stanley/ Randolph wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > > I would use engine oil. It actually penetrates better. Takes a  
> little longer but works better.
> >
> > > Stanley
> >
> > > --- On Wed, 12/30/09, Kim Paddock wrote:
> >
> > > From: Kim Paddock
> > > Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
> > > To: [email protected]
> > > Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 1:59 PM
> >
> > > Hit it with a good penetrating oil and let it sit....that  
> usually works for me.
> >
> > > From: Dennis Hammerl
> > > To: [email protected]
> > > Sent: Tue, December 29, 2009 11:23:57 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
> >
> > > I don't have much of an answer for you. Don't know how much  
> I've put on 'em but it's been enough that two guys had to hold the  
> bike from spinning on the center stand. That's with my 2' bar and  
> 3' tube combo. 5' X 150lb weakling = ? I wonder if it's cross  
> threaded or just corroded on. If you got one off, you see that they  
> are fine thread and have an O ring. i've heated some stuff like  
> that (not a fork though) and then applied an ice cube to the cap to  
> shrink it quickly. Could spray it with something cold too. Pulling  
> on the socket while heating might do it. The socket would act as a  
> heat sink and keep the cap cooler. If you can get another cap, you  
> might have to crack off the top rim with a small chisel. (leave the  
> hex) The rim is where the pressure is. Once off, unless cross  
> threaded, it should back out easy. Good luck.
> >
> > > --- On Wed, 12/30/09, oldschoolgwin wrote:
> >
> > > From: oldschoolgwin
> > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
> > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!"
> > > Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 12:42 AM
> >
> > > Thanks Dennnis. I managed to get a socket that grips it much  
> better.
> > > In this case 27mm is the same as 1 1/16" (well actually 1 1/16' is
> > > just slightly smaller to my advantage).
> >
> > > This socket grips it much better but i've put at least 100 lbs  
> on it
> > > and it won't budge. The scary part is what will give first as i  
> push
> > > harder - knowing the bolt head is not 100% to begin with - yikes.
> >
> > > I tried a propane torch and heated teh fork tube up to maybe  
> 200-250F
> > > and applied the 100 ft-lbs - no luck. Not sure if this would work
> > > since the alumninum bolt expands faster than the steel fork tube.
> >
> > > Is there any other method too try before just increasing  
> torque? How
> > > about an Impact gun - not sure if this would be effectitve on an
> > > aluminum hex head???
> >
> > > On Dec 27, 8:17 pm, Dennis Hammerl wrote:
> >
> > > > Well, first off it isn't 1 1/16". It's metric. The proper  
> size 1/2" drive 6 point socket should do. I prefer the "flank- 
> drive" variety because they apply contact in the middle of the  
> flats. My personal choice is the Kowa brand (Japan). They have a  
> rather pronounced "flank-drive" I leave the tubes in the fork and  
> only loosen the top clamp. A 24" bar and a 3' tube gets most  
> anything. Sometimes you need someone to hold the bike. check with  
> any Jap bike dealers to see if any of their techs use Kowa sockets  
> and try to borrow one. The chisel is the last resort cause I have  
> to buy the replacement.
> >
> > > > --- On Sun, 12/27/09, oldschoolgwin wrote:
> >
> > > > From: oldschoolgwin
> > > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
> > > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!"
> > > > Date: Sunday, December 27, 2009, 9:36 PM
> >
> > > > Hi All.
> >
> > > > Well I'm installing new fork seals on my 83 650.
> >
> > > > The left fork tube cap is stuck and it appears it was a  
> victim of some
> > > > previous shade tree mechanic with a 1 size fits all wrench -  
> rounded
> > > > corners on that cap and not much left.
> >
> > > > Any ideas on how to ge this off. A six point 1 1/16' socket  
> doesn't
> > > > want to grip it enough to break it loose.
> >
> > > > I guess if worse comes to worse i could drill two 1/4"  
> through holes
> > > > and make a pinned spanner to remove it - but that is just  
> more effort
> > > > than i like.
> >
> > > > Anyone know any tricks? Chisel and hammer at the edge?  
> Options are
> > > > looking so good!
> >
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