Yes, I understand why it can be too tight, nor too loose. I am just
wondering if there is a more precise way to set the chain slack, instead
just -somewhere between the two extremes-. Perhaps it doesn't matter, but I
am worried about the cracking sound.

Javier.

On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 11:37 AM, David Cummings <
[email protected]> wrote:

> about #5 - on any bike with rear suspension, you need more chain slack
> than you would think (like say on a bicycle). This is because the
> effective chainstay length changes as you compress the shocks. If you
> got it fairly tight without any weight on the seat, it's probably too
> tight when you are sitting on it, much more so if you go over a bump
> with the rear.
> Of course, this is all from working with friends' bikes, my 700s
> doesn't have this issue :-)
>
> On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 11:05 AM, paul annen <[email protected]>
> wrote:
> > the only answer i have is to #4... it is called a torque wrench.... and
> #5
> > alot of people use there pocket change to measure ther chain slack...
> damn
> > im glad my GL is shaft drive...
> >
> > On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 10:45 AM, Javier Garcia <[email protected]>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi all,
> >>
> >> I have a couple of questions concerning the chain and rear brake of a 96
> >> NH 750. When I visited Graham last week we adjusted the chain (among
> other
> >> things), since it was quite loose. Once I got back home I start hearing
> some
> >> kind of clocking noise when I start from a stop. It appears to be
> related to
> >> the chain somehow. It is difficult to describe, but once the bike start
> >> moving I can hear some "crank, crank, crank" few times and then goes
> away
> >> when I increase the speed. I cannot tell if still makes that sound when
> >> moving faster. Last night I though maybe the chain need to be readjusted
> or
> >> something (although I never experienced this when the chain was too
> loose).
> >> This time I tensioned the chain a bit more, leaving just a little slack
> >> (perhaps was even too tight). The noise then got worse, I could hear the
> >> same thing just at the instant that the wells start moving. Then I loose
> the
> >> chain again, and came back to the original point where I was, with the
> same
> >> noise.
> >> Since I moved the wheel back and forth, I had to adjust the rear brake
> as
> >> well. The I noticed that it was getting stuck after applying it. I mean,
> I
> >> push the leaver, it comes back, but the brake is still stuck. I had to
> move
> >> it with my hand to disengage. I went to the Common Service Manual to
> check
> >> what I was doing wrong, and then I saw in the section about chain
> adjustment
> >> "After adjustment, retighten the axle nut to the specified torque" (pag
> 46).
> >> I remember I had tighten the nut really hard. So I loose it up a little
> bit,
> >> and then voila!, the brake is working fine again. I drove it today, and
> >> actually the noise had been reduced as well, although I still hear an
> small
> >> crank when starting from stop.
> >>
> >> Questions:
> >>
> >> 1) Does any of this makes sense?
> >>
> >> 2) Could the noise be related to the torque applied on the axle nut
> >> instead of the chain tension?
> >>
> >> 3) How do I know what is the right torque for this bike?
> >>
> >> 4) Is there a tool that indicates which torque is being applied to the
> >> nut?
> >>
> >> 5) How much slack should the chain have? is there any consistent way to
> >> measure it?
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance,
> >> Javier.
> >>
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