It used to be an inch of play. We set Javier's about an inch and a half of slack. His rear brake was hanging up but we seemed to have it working freely before he left. It wasn't the shaft or inside the brake drum, it was where the rod went through the small cylinder (the rod that has the adjusting nut on the end). I didn't think of it at the time but we could have tried a stronger spring - the long spring on the rod. Maybe you could try just taking the adjusting nut off and stretch the spring. I didn't think too much about it at the time but now that Javier is hearing a 'crank' noise, it sounds like that spring isn't doing it's job. We didn't take his rear wheel off because he doesn't have a main stand. That's a bit of a problem when adjusting the chain as well. Would someone please send Javier a main stand!

On May 19, 2010, at 11:37 AM, David Cummings wrote:

about #5 - on any bike with rear suspension, you need more chain slack
than you would think (like say on a bicycle). This is because the
effective chainstay length changes as you compress the shocks. If you
got it fairly tight without any weight on the seat, it's probably too
tight when you are sitting on it, much more so if you go over a bump
with the rear.
Of course, this is all from working with friends' bikes, my 700s
doesn't have this issue :-)

On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 11:05 AM, paul annen <[email protected]> wrote:
the only answer i have is to #4... it is called a torque wrench.... and #5 alot of people use there pocket change to measure ther chain slack... damn
im glad my GL is shaft drive...

On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 10:45 AM, Javier Garcia <[email protected]> wrote:

Hi all,

I have a couple of questions concerning the chain and rear brake of a 96 NH 750. When I visited Graham last week we adjusted the chain (among other things), since it was quite loose. Once I got back home I start hearing some kind of clocking noise when I start from a stop. It appears to be related to the chain somehow. It is difficult to describe, but once the bike start moving I can hear some "crank, crank, crank" few times and then goes away when I increase the speed. I cannot tell if still makes that sound when moving faster. Last night I though maybe the chain need to be readjusted or something (although I never experienced this when the chain was too loose). This time I tensioned the chain a bit more, leaving just a little slack (perhaps was even too tight). The noise then got worse, I could hear the same thing just at the instant that the wells start moving. Then I loose the chain again, and came back to the original point where I was, with the same
noise.
Since I moved the wheel back and forth, I had to adjust the rear brake as well. The I noticed that it was getting stuck after applying it. I mean, I push the leaver, it comes back, but the brake is still stuck. I had to move it with my hand to disengage. I went to the Common Service Manual to check what I was doing wrong, and then I saw in the section about chain adjustment "After adjustment, retighten the axle nut to the specified torque" (pag 46). I remember I had tighten the nut really hard. So I loose it up a little bit, and then voila!, the brake is working fine again. I drove it today, and actually the noise had been reduced as well, although I still hear an small
crank when starting from stop.

Questions:

1) Does any of this makes sense?

2) Could the noise be related to the torque applied on the axle nut
instead of the chain tension?

3) How do I know what is the right torque for this bike?

4) Is there a tool that indicates which torque is being applied to the
nut?

5) How much slack should the chain have? is there any consistent way to
measure it?

Thanks in advance,
Javier.

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