It used to be an inch of play. We set Javier's about an inch and a
half of slack. His rear brake was hanging up but we seemed to have it
working freely before he left. It wasn't the shaft or inside the
brake drum, it was where the rod went through the small cylinder (the
rod that has the adjusting nut on the end). I didn't think of it at
the time but we could have tried a stronger spring - the long spring
on the rod. Maybe you could try just taking the adjusting nut off and
stretch the spring. I didn't think too much about it at the time but
now that Javier is hearing a 'crank' noise, it sounds like that
spring isn't doing it's job. We didn't take his rear wheel off
because he doesn't have a main stand. That's a bit of a problem when
adjusting the chain as well. Would someone please send Javier a main
stand!
On May 19, 2010, at 11:37 AM, David Cummings wrote:
about #5 - on any bike with rear suspension, you need more chain slack
than you would think (like say on a bicycle). This is because the
effective chainstay length changes as you compress the shocks. If you
got it fairly tight without any weight on the seat, it's probably too
tight when you are sitting on it, much more so if you go over a bump
with the rear.
Of course, this is all from working with friends' bikes, my 700s
doesn't have this issue :-)
On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 11:05 AM, paul annen
<[email protected]> wrote:
the only answer i have is to #4... it is called a torque
wrench.... and #5
alot of people use there pocket change to measure ther chain
slack... damn
im glad my GL is shaft drive...
On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 10:45 AM, Javier Garcia
<[email protected]> wrote:
Hi all,
I have a couple of questions concerning the chain and rear brake
of a 96
NH 750. When I visited Graham last week we adjusted the chain
(among other
things), since it was quite loose. Once I got back home I start
hearing some
kind of clocking noise when I start from a stop. It appears to be
related to
the chain somehow. It is difficult to describe, but once the bike
start
moving I can hear some "crank, crank, crank" few times and then
goes away
when I increase the speed. I cannot tell if still makes that
sound when
moving faster. Last night I though maybe the chain need to be
readjusted or
something (although I never experienced this when the chain was
too loose).
This time I tensioned the chain a bit more, leaving just a little
slack
(perhaps was even too tight). The noise then got worse, I could
hear the
same thing just at the instant that the wells start moving. Then
I loose the
chain again, and came back to the original point where I was,
with the same
noise.
Since I moved the wheel back and forth, I had to adjust the rear
brake as
well. The I noticed that it was getting stuck after applying it.
I mean, I
push the leaver, it comes back, but the brake is still stuck. I
had to move
it with my hand to disengage. I went to the Common Service Manual
to check
what I was doing wrong, and then I saw in the section about chain
adjustment
"After adjustment, retighten the axle nut to the specified
torque" (pag 46).
I remember I had tighten the nut really hard. So I loose it up a
little bit,
and then voila!, the brake is working fine again. I drove it
today, and
actually the noise had been reduced as well, although I still
hear an small
crank when starting from stop.
Questions:
1) Does any of this makes sense?
2) Could the noise be related to the torque applied on the axle nut
instead of the chain tension?
3) How do I know what is the right torque for this bike?
4) Is there a tool that indicates which torque is being applied
to the
nut?
5) How much slack should the chain have? is there any consistent
way to
measure it?
Thanks in advance,
Javier.
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