Ok Graham, I just order a new center stand for my NH. So, seat tight and
wait for all the questions I am going to ask about how to install the thing
when arrives. No more walking around to clean/lubricate the chain.
Javier.

On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 1:12 PM, Javier Garcia <[email protected]> wrote:

> No Graham, this is different. I am almost sure the sound is related with
> the chain. To give you an idea, it is  similar to the sound made when you
> are changing gears on a mountain bike. Initially I thought it could be that
> the chain got too loose after the trip back home. As I said, just to tried
> to adjusted it leaving almost no slack, and the sound got worse! Conversely,
> loosing the chain back minimizes the problem.
>
> Now, the rear brake issue is also different to what you saw. When I said
> that it was stuck, I am actually talking about the shaft. In fact, I took
> the rod, spring and all that off. So with my hand I moved the shaft to apply
> the brake. Doing just that the brake will get stuck, and I would need to
> pull firmly back to disengage, like if the pads where sticky inside the
> drum. This problem was _solved_ when I loosed up a bit the axle nut. Now it
> seems to be working perfectly. So I assume it was that, too much torque
> applied on the axle nut. Question is, how much torque _must_ be applied? I
> don't want the rear wheel to come lose while driving on the highway ;).
>
> As I said, more puzzling is the fact that loosing the axle nut seems to
> help with the chain noise. It is almost gone, although I need to drive a bit
> longer to confirm that.
>
> Graham, could you check on your little book for the 750 if it has
> information about the torque needed on the rear axle nut?
>
> Javier.
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 12:08 PM, Graham Rogers <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>  Javier, is it the same sound we heard when we would apply the brake and
>> the spring didn't return the brake to it's free position?
>>
>> On May 19, 2010, at 11:59 AM, Javier Garcia wrote:
>>
>> Yes, I understand why it can be too tight, nor too loose. I am just
>> wondering if there is a more precise way to set the chain slack, instead
>> just -somewhere between the two extremes-. Perhaps it doesn't matter, but I
>> am worried about the cracking sound.
>>
>> Javier.
>>
>> On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 11:37 AM, David Cummings <
>> [email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> about #5 - on any bike with rear suspension, you need more chain slack
>>> than you would think (like say on a bicycle). This is because the
>>> effective chainstay length changes as you compress the shocks. If you
>>> got it fairly tight without any weight on the seat, it's probably too
>>> tight when you are sitting on it, much more so if you go over a bump
>>> with the rear.
>>> Of course, this is all from working with friends' bikes, my 700s
>>> doesn't have this issue :-)
>>>
>>> On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 11:05 AM, paul annen <[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>> > the only answer i have is to #4... it is called a torque wrench.... and
>>> #5
>>> > alot of people use there pocket change to measure ther chain slack...
>>> damn
>>> > im glad my GL is shaft drive...
>>> >
>>> > On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 10:45 AM, Javier Garcia <[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>> >>
>>> >> Hi all,
>>> >>
>>> >> I have a couple of questions concerning the chain and rear brake of a
>>> 96
>>> >> NH 750. When I visited Graham last week we adjusted the chain (among
>>> other
>>> >> things), since it was quite loose. Once I got back home I start
>>> hearing some
>>> >> kind of clocking noise when I start from a stop. It appears to be
>>> related to
>>> >> the chain somehow. It is difficult to describe, but once the bike
>>> start
>>> >> moving I can hear some "crank, crank, crank" few times and then goes
>>> away
>>> >> when I increase the speed. I cannot tell if still makes that sound
>>> when
>>> >> moving faster. Last night I though maybe the chain need to be
>>> readjusted or
>>> >> something (although I never experienced this when the chain was too
>>> loose).
>>> >> This time I tensioned the chain a bit more, leaving just a little
>>> slack
>>> >> (perhaps was even too tight). The noise then got worse, I could hear
>>> the
>>> >> same thing just at the instant that the wells start moving. Then I
>>> loose the
>>> >> chain again, and came back to the original point where I was, with the
>>> same
>>> >> noise.
>>> >> Since I moved the wheel back and forth, I had to adjust the rear brake
>>> as
>>> >> well. The I noticed that it was getting stuck after applying it. I
>>> mean, I
>>> >> push the leaver, it comes back, but the brake is still stuck. I had to
>>> move
>>> >> it with my hand to disengage. I went to the Common Service Manual to
>>> check
>>> >> what I was doing wrong, and then I saw in the section about chain
>>> adjustment
>>> >> "After adjustment, retighten the axle nut to the specified torque"
>>> (pag 46).
>>> >> I remember I had tighten the nut really hard. So I loose it up a
>>> little bit,
>>> >> and then voila!, the brake is working fine again. I drove it today,
>>> and
>>> >> actually the noise had been reduced as well, although I still hear an
>>> small
>>> >> crank when starting from stop.
>>> >>
>>> >> Questions:
>>> >>
>>> >> 1) Does any of this makes sense?
>>> >>
>>> >> 2) Could the noise be related to the torque applied on the axle nut
>>> >> instead of the chain tension?
>>> >>
>>> >> 3) How do I know what is the right torque for this bike?
>>> >>
>>> >> 4) Is there a tool that indicates which torque is being applied to the
>>> >> nut?
>>> >>
>>> >> 5) How much slack should the chain have? is there any consistent way
>>> to
>>> >> measure it?
>>> >>
>>> >> Thanks in advance,
>>> >> Javier.
>>> >>
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