Javier, rear wheel axle nut should be at 65 lbf-ft
Graham
On May 19, 2010, at 2:34 PM, Javier Garcia wrote:
Ok Graham, I just order a new center stand for my NH. So, seat
tight and wait for all the questions I am going to ask about how to
install the thing when arrives. No more walking around to clean/
lubricate the chain.
Javier.
On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 1:12 PM, Javier Garcia
<[email protected]> wrote:
No Graham, this is different. I am almost sure the sound is related
with the chain. To give you an idea, it is similar to the sound
made when you are changing gears on a mountain bike. Initially I
thought it could be that the chain got too loose after the trip
back home. As I said, just to tried to adjusted it leaving almost
no slack, and the sound got worse! Conversely, loosing the chain
back minimizes the problem.
Now, the rear brake issue is also different to what you saw. When I
said that it was stuck, I am actually talking about the shaft. In
fact, I took the rod, spring and all that off. So with my hand I
moved the shaft to apply the brake. Doing just that the brake will
get stuck, and I would need to pull firmly back to disengage, like
if the pads where sticky inside the drum. This problem was _solved_
when I loosed up a bit the axle nut. Now it seems to be working
perfectly. So I assume it was that, too much torque applied on the
axle nut. Question is, how much torque _must_ be applied? I don't
want the rear wheel to come lose while driving on the highway ;).
As I said, more puzzling is the fact that loosing the axle nut
seems to help with the chain noise. It is almost gone, although I
need to drive a bit longer to confirm that.
Graham, could you check on your little book for the 750 if it has
information about the torque needed on the rear axle nut?
Javier.
On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 12:08 PM, Graham Rogers <[email protected]>
wrote:
Javier, is it the same sound we heard when we would apply the brake
and the spring didn't return the brake to it's free position?
On May 19, 2010, at 11:59 AM, Javier Garcia wrote:
Yes, I understand why it can be too tight, nor too loose. I am
just wondering if there is a more precise way to set the chain
slack, instead just -somewhere between the two extremes-. Perhaps
it doesn't matter, but I am worried about the cracking sound.
Javier.
On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 11:37 AM, David Cummings
<[email protected]> wrote:
about #5 - on any bike with rear suspension, you need more chain
slack
than you would think (like say on a bicycle). This is because the
effective chainstay length changes as you compress the shocks. If you
got it fairly tight without any weight on the seat, it's probably too
tight when you are sitting on it, much more so if you go over a bump
with the rear.
Of course, this is all from working with friends' bikes, my 700s
doesn't have this issue :-)
On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 11:05 AM, paul annen
<[email protected]> wrote:
> the only answer i have is to #4... it is called a torque
wrench.... and #5
> alot of people use there pocket change to measure ther chain
slack... damn
> im glad my GL is shaft drive...
>
> On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 10:45 AM, Javier Garcia
<[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I have a couple of questions concerning the chain and rear
brake of a 96
>> NH 750. When I visited Graham last week we adjusted the chain
(among other
>> things), since it was quite loose. Once I got back home I start
hearing some
>> kind of clocking noise when I start from a stop. It appears to
be related to
>> the chain somehow. It is difficult to describe, but once the
bike start
>> moving I can hear some "crank, crank, crank" few times and then
goes away
>> when I increase the speed. I cannot tell if still makes that
sound when
>> moving faster. Last night I though maybe the chain need to be
readjusted or
>> something (although I never experienced this when the chain was
too loose).
>> This time I tensioned the chain a bit more, leaving just a
little slack
>> (perhaps was even too tight). The noise then got worse, I could
hear the
>> same thing just at the instant that the wells start moving.
Then I loose the
>> chain again, and came back to the original point where I was,
with the same
>> noise.
>> Since I moved the wheel back and forth, I had to adjust the
rear brake as
>> well. The I noticed that it was getting stuck after applying
it. I mean, I
>> push the leaver, it comes back, but the brake is still stuck. I
had to move
>> it with my hand to disengage. I went to the Common Service
Manual to check
>> what I was doing wrong, and then I saw in the section about
chain adjustment
>> "After adjustment, retighten the axle nut to the specified
torque" (pag 46).
>> I remember I had tighten the nut really hard. So I loose it up
a little bit,
>> and then voila!, the brake is working fine again. I drove it
today, and
>> actually the noise had been reduced as well, although I still
hear an small
>> crank when starting from stop.
>>
>> Questions:
>>
>> 1) Does any of this makes sense?
>>
>> 2) Could the noise be related to the torque applied on the axle
nut
>> instead of the chain tension?
>>
>> 3) How do I know what is the right torque for this bike?
>>
>> 4) Is there a tool that indicates which torque is being applied
to the
>> nut?
>>
>> 5) How much slack should the chain have? is there any
consistent way to
>> measure it?
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>> Javier.
>>
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