OK, where do I get a no load flasher - 3 prongs)
On Jun 13, 2010, at 1:23 PM, paul annen wrote:
a no load flasher unit is a 555 timer circuit with a rehistat to
adjust the timing.... but in english its a replacement flasher unit
that will work at any amperage (the oem ones are a bi metallic
strip that flashes biased on the strip heating up and breaking
contact cooling off and reconnecting.... ) its an electronic
circuit not a mechanical thermal unit... i believe that they are
now even cheaper then oem...
On Sun, Jun 13, 2010 at 12:44 PM, Graham Rogers <[email protected]>
wrote:
what is a no load flasher unit?
On Jun 13, 2010, at 9:58 AM, Joey Kelley wrote:
Thats where I was going with that as well- a No-Load flasher unit will
continue to flash no matter what load is on the circuit. If I were you
Graham - I'd swap the flasher unit for a no-load unit and see if that
makes a difference. I think you can use a No-load on any circuit - so
it wouldn't harm traditional bulbs either.
-Joey
On Sun, Jun 13, 2010 at 9:45 AM, [email protected]
<[email protected]> wrote:
The main reason flashers units dont work is the bulbs dont draw
enough amps (did u reace with a lower watt bulb or leds???) the
test is fairly simple, hook up a large light (i used a sealed beam
headlight) into the circuit... If this makes it flash u need to get
a digital flasher unit (spicifily for led turnsignals)...
-----Original Message-----
Date: Sunday, June 13, 2010 9:24:11 am
To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]>
From: "Graham Rogers" <[email protected]>
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] turn signals not working
Here's one I'm fed up with working on. I have two bikes that have
nonworking right turn signals. They both do the same thing. So I'll
describe one. (The other is a kz1000).
It's a 1982/83 Suzuki GS1100L. I replaced the turn signals with new
after markets. The front originls were running lights with three
wires, the replacements are just two wire. So with the signals
hooked up - and I'm sure I have the wires connected correctly on the
front ones, leaving the running lights wires open (unconnected). The
turn signals stay on when activated. The left ones turn on when I
push the switch to the left, and same for the right. I have changed
the flasher unit and the relay unit - no difference. A new battery
and correct charging voltage makes no difference. It seems to me
there's not enough voltage getting to the flasher unit to make it
work. One wire out of the flasher unit reads over 12 v, the other -
way under (it's a three prong unit). I have checked all grounds,
added one, no difference. Any suggestions? Graham
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