Point well taken. I guess I need to seriously consider if I want to retune the 
bike or risk a gurgly, goofy detuned situation. I truly don't have the 
knowledge to tune a carbureted engine. For now, I've ran a fuel system cleaner 
through it in case there is any water in the tank. It already seems to be 
running smoother. 
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: surfswab <[email protected]>
Sender: [email protected]
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 01:14:44 
To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!<[email protected]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: air filter replacement procedure 96 nighthawk 
750

The "shite" in the carbs will not have arrived there via the air
cleaner, but via "varnished" gas.  When a bike sits up a lot (yours is
15 years old, with only 12,000 miles on it -- indicating it hasn't
been ridden a whole lot), the volatile organic compounds in the gas
evaporate, leaving behind a syrupy sludge that clogs the passageways
in the carbs and prevents them from doing an efficient job.

It's a typical scenario for any old bike and probably the reason yours
is not idling/performing properly.  The remedy is a thorough and
methodical  dismantling and cleaning of not just the carbs, but the
petcock and gas tank as well.

The plastic airbox and its filter are less critical, but in stock form
they are designed to work together to provide just the right volume of
air to the carbs.  If you introduce more air -- as you would with a
free-flowing filter like the K&N -- you risk upsetting the fuel/air
ratio the motor needs, maybe even after rejetting.  So, using a K&N,
with no other modification, is not automatically a good thing.

Neither is rejetting, unless you know what you're doing.  Even then
it's a fiddly, experimental thing, requiring a lot of tweaking.

Not trying to scare you away from pursuing it, just tossing a little
practical reality into the mix.

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