Don't be scared I did it last summer and know what settings you need I just need to look for my post with them. Fixing the carburation was the single best upgrade $ I have spent on the bike. Even if you don't change out the main jets at least stick 2 #4 washers under the needles and turn out the pilot screws to 3 or 3 1/4 turns. That will fix all the idle and mid-range issues, but the lack of passing power on the highway can only be fixed by larger mains. Now I have a modified stock exhaust and a Uni filter on mine if you go to a V&H exhaust and K&N you could probably go up a main jet size. Also if you get a jet kit get a Factory Pro Dynojet makes you modify the slides and they use proprietary jets and needles. Factory pro uses Kehin parts. Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] Sender: [email protected] Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 12:40:56 To: <[email protected]> Reply-To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: air filter replacement procedure 96 nighthawk 750 Point well taken. I guess I need to seriously consider if I want to retune the bike or risk a gurgly, goofy detuned situation. I truly don't have the knowledge to tune a carbureted engine. For now, I've ran a fuel system cleaner through it in case there is any water in the tank. It already seems to be running smoother. Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: surfswab <[email protected]> Sender: [email protected] Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 01:14:44 To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!<[email protected]> Reply-To: [email protected] Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: air filter replacement procedure 96 nighthawk 750 The "shite" in the carbs will not have arrived there via the air cleaner, but via "varnished" gas. When a bike sits up a lot (yours is 15 years old, with only 12,000 miles on it -- indicating it hasn't been ridden a whole lot), the volatile organic compounds in the gas evaporate, leaving behind a syrupy sludge that clogs the passageways in the carbs and prevents them from doing an efficient job. It's a typical scenario for any old bike and probably the reason yours is not idling/performing properly. The remedy is a thorough and methodical dismantling and cleaning of not just the carbs, but the petcock and gas tank as well. The plastic airbox and its filter are less critical, but in stock form they are designed to work together to provide just the right volume of air to the carbs. If you introduce more air -- as you would with a free-flowing filter like the K&N -- you risk upsetting the fuel/air ratio the motor needs, maybe even after rejetting. So, using a K&N, with no other modification, is not automatically a good thing. Neither is rejetting, unless you know what you're doing. Even then it's a fiddly, experimental thing, requiring a lot of tweaking. Not trying to scare you away from pursuing it, just tossing a little practical reality into the mix. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en.
