Leaky carb boots will make the bike run lean, which will make it idle high when warmed up. I had a bike that wouldn't fall below 3K on idle even with the idle screw all the way out. Have you done the trick where you spray starter fluid on the carb boots when the bike is at idle? If it revs high(er) then,you're sucking air where you shouldn't be, and you need to change the boots. Of course this could just be one contributing factor to your problem, not a total solution.
On Thursday, September 18, 2014 12:06:07 AM UTC-4, DoomSmt wrote: > > For those that have been following along, I have been working on a 1983 NH > 550. I just finally got around to bleeding the clutch. That went well and > definitely needed it. The master cylinder was almost dry and the fluid was > filthy. > > Here's what else is going on: > The bike starts fine. It takes a while to warm up, but nothing out of the > ordinary there. I can take off fine, shift fine, but after a bit of riding > (like twice around the block) when I squeeze the clutch lever, the engine > revs up to 4-5k rpms. Doesn't matter if I am upshifting, downshifting or > stopping. I'm going speeds 30mph or less in 2nd or 3rd, rpms at 3-4k. Once > I get back in gear, it levels off. When I come to a stop the engine screams > and I have to shut off the engine. > I have made some adjustments to the idle screw. Is it possible that my > bike just isn't "warmed up" until it starts revving like that? Maybe I made > the adjustment on a cold engine? I sure thought it was warmed up. Should I > re adjust the idle screw after the revving starts? Something else entirely? > > Thanks everyone! > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
