Very nice, Bob, and eminently usable for your stated needs. :-) I wrote up two relatively simple Lightroom negative to positive conversion methods for another list just the other day.. Copied from there:
> You can convert negative to positive in LR, it just takes some effort. Two > ways to do it: > > 1: > - Import raw exposures. > - Select a frame. > - Go to Develop module. > - Open Tone Curve panel. > - Click to the point curve option. > - Grab the White end of the slider and pull it to the bottom. > - Grab the Black end of the slider and pull it to the top. > - Adjust white point and black point with the sliders and the curve with > added points.* > > * Note that the sense of dark and light tones will be inverted in the UI > which can make fine adjustment difficult, both in the tone curve and in other > adjustment controls. The next step deals with this. > > - When you get roughly close, Export to the same location and auto-import a > positive 16-bit TIFF file for finish rendering work. > > 2: > - Import raw exposures > - Use the DNG Profile Editor application to create a camera calibration > profile (CCP) that reverses the tone curve and install it into Lightroom (one > time per camera). > - Install the CCP and restart Lightroom. > - Select the raw exposures. > - Go to Develop module. > - Select all the exposures you want to invert from that camera. > - Choose the inversion DNG profile in the Camera Calibration panel. > - Rough in an edit, and output to TIFF for finish rendering as above. > > For Color negs, you have to add the steps needed to eliminate the orange > crossover mask, which I do before reversing the tonal curve using the color > temperature dropper, or in the DNG Profile Editor for reversal CCPs. Method 1 is what I use most of the time … I have LR presets set up to do the basic adjustments for Olympus E-1, E-M1; Leica SL, M-P 240, M-D 262, CL; and Hasselblad 907x cameras now. I've also created custom CCPs for a couple of those cameras that do the inversion as well, but I find the inverted Tone Curve method is generally easier to deal with (at least for B&W … I have very very little color neg that I want to scan). I don't know whether this works on the version of Lightroom that runs on iOS or iPadOS … I've never used that. I run Lightroom Classic on macOS Catalina at present. G > On Apr 18, 2020, at 8:26 AM, Bob Pdml <[email protected]> wrote: > > The light-pad I ordered arrived about an hour ok, so I made my first > investigative foray into shooting negatives and slides with my M typ262, 50mm > Summicron lens and the BOOWU-M copy stand. > > I shot some Kodachrome 25, Scala, colour neg and BW neg, all with the stand > at the A4 setting. Some of these were in their sleeve, some I took out. None > of them had glass on top to flatten them. That is something I need to get. > > Out of curiosity I also shot one K25 slide, from France in 1979, at the A6 > setting, cropped it in LR and auto-adjusted. > > https://adobe.ly/2KfnGOv > > I’m quite pleased with the results. They do what I wanted, which was to find > a quick way of making an index ‘contact’ print of a whole roll. I can > catalogue it in LR and file the slides and negs in a way that makes things > findable when I want to do a better scan of some of them, for family and > friends. It also makes them reasonably browsable, so I can see what I have > after over 40 years of photography. > > This set-up won’t work for high quality individual scans because A6 is the > smallest 1:1 it can do. But there are plenty of ways to scan individual > frames, including my Nikon LS4000 if necessary. > > I don’t know how to invert the negatives in LR on my iPad or iPhone, and I > don’t have a windows machine at the moment, but that’s quite minor - if > anyone does know, please spill the beans. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List [email protected] http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
