Thanks again. After your reply yesterday I retried the colour negs but this time used the WB dropper on what I knew to be white - the whitest part of the window frame in neg #28. I then inverted the curves, and this is pretty much what came out, which is not bad at all for current purposes - top row:
https://lightroom.adobe.com/shares/4b4aeebf424b4d5aaeeadd495b883953/albums/de5820d8befe4c0a928b9af08a18ae93/assets/e00c74794c6b491f928695c2991280d1/metadata I’ll try using the film rebate too. When it’s not obvious from the negatives where the best white it becomes a bit haphazard. I have ordered a roll of Ektar 100 and will shoot a series of bracketed shots, with notes, of my white balance card and, when I find it, my Q-60 target. If I include these negs with a set then I will always know where there is a standard white, even though it will be different film stock, and hopefully it will be close enough for my purposes, which is to get a good enough positive for me to evaluate. When the time comes to scan individual negatives for high quality output I will try and learn how to do this properly. It may be that I can never do it - certainly not by eye as I’m colourblnd - in which case the neg will have to go to a lab. > On 20 Apr 2020, at 16:53, Godfrey DiGiorgi <[email protected]> wrote: > > Glad to help out! > > Removal of the crossover mask is probably the most vexing part of working > with color negative processing because it varies by the type of film, the > particular way a film was processed, and the age of the film as well. I > remember from working in the photofinishing lab … it was no better then, a > skilled print machine operator simply looked at the film and knew how much to > tweak the reference settings based on the experience of having down a few > thousand frames. > > In this album on flickr - https://www.flickr.com/gp/gdgphoto/QJ437u - I show > a simplistic capture setup with a random B&W negative and then another > capture of a random color negative. I used the White Balance dropper on the > film rebate between frames to neutralize the crossover mask and then tweaked > it further in the finish rendered image. This particular film had a > relatively light crossover mask; other films have much deeper hue'ed > crossover masks. > > I don't know that a reference gray/color target is going to give much better > information than just using the rebate of the film unless it was made at the > same time as the original images on that same film. It's always just a rough > starting point for my image processing. There's as much feel and art to this > as there is science IMO, because we all tend to perceive color slightly > differently and what is too cool for one person is often just right for > another. Unless you're working with specific colormetric type materials and > needs… forensic and science data, for instance. > > For that example photo, I found that the crossover mask removal was > reasonable and technically about right, but that the resultant image felt a > little dull and cool, so I then warmed it up with a shift in the color > temperature and hue controls, poked at the contrast a touch. > > G > >> On Apr 19, 2020, at 12:18 PM, Bob Pdml <[email protected]> wrote: >> >> Thanks Godfrey, that’s very helpful and I’ll experiment with your methods. >> I’ve already discovered dragging the tone curves; the orange mask is a bit >> problematic at the moment. >> >> It occurs to me that if I were to shoot a slide each of a colour target and >> a grey card under daylight (my lightbox is 5000K), and include them on each >> colour index print, it might help in some way. Or I might just be >> overcomplicating something that only needs to be good enough, not perfect. >> [… snip …] > > > -- > PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List > [email protected] > http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net > to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow > the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List [email protected] http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
