Hi,

Yes, I thought the version from yesterday was ok.

Earlier today I re-did it using the rebate, and I think it’s better, and 
repeatable. After I’d done it I realised why it works, and how rational it is - 
as you describe. One of those things that’s obvious after the event.

I can’t do colour work that relies on my judgement - I will have to find a way 
that works by numbers, or outsource it. I don’t think the volumes will be 
particularly high, and it’s only negatives that matter, slides don’t really 
require me to make any colour  judgements.

B

> On 21 Apr 2020, at 15:10, Godfrey DiGiorgi <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> That's a pretty good result for a proof sheet! 
> 
> The film rebate is usually the best reference because you know it should be 
> clear film … thereby white if considered a positive, invert to pure black in 
> the actual positive. :)
> 
> Fun stuff, I'm glad to see how you're progressing with this technique. It's a 
> nice time savings to getting an reasonable index print so you know where to 
> go for finish capture. 
> 
> (Yes, I don't know how you'd do finish rendering on color work if you're 
> color blind. I can imagine some numerical analyses, but …!! )
> 
> onwards!
> G
> 
> 
>> On Apr 20, 2020, at 1:34 PM, Bob Pdml <[email protected]> wrote:
>> 
>> Thanks again. After your reply yesterday I retried the colour negs but this 
>> time used the WB dropper on what I knew to be white - the whitest part of 
>> the window frame in neg #28. I then inverted the curves, and this is pretty 
>> much what came out, which is not bad at all for current purposes - top row:
>> 
>> https://lightroom.adobe.com/shares/4b4aeebf424b4d5aaeeadd495b883953/albums/de5820d8befe4c0a928b9af08a18ae93/assets/e00c74794c6b491f928695c2991280d1/metadata
>> 
>> I’ll try using the film rebate too. When it’s not obvious from the negatives 
>> where the best white it becomes a bit haphazard. I have ordered a roll of 
>> Ektar 100 and will shoot a series of bracketed shots, with notes, of my 
>> white balance card and, when I find it, my Q-60 target. If I include these 
>> negs with a set then I will always know where there is a standard white, 
>> even though it will be different film stock, and hopefully it will be close 
>> enough for my purposes, which is to get a good enough positive for me to 
>> evaluate.
>> 
>> When the time comes to scan individual negatives for high quality output I 
>> will try and learn how to do this properly. It may be that I can never do it 
>> - certainly not by eye as I’m colourblnd - in which case the neg will have 
>> to go to a lab.
> 
> 
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