Thanks Godfrey, that’s very helpful and I’ll experiment with your methods. I’ve already discovered dragging the tone curves; the orange mask is a bit problematic at the moment.
It occurs to me that if I were to shoot a slide each of a colour target and a grey card under daylight (my lightbox is 5000K), and include them on each colour index print, it might help in some way. Or I might just be overcomplicating something that only needs to be good enough, not perfect. > On 19 Apr 2020, at 19:46, Godfrey DiGiorgi <[email protected]> wrote: > > Very nice, Bob, and eminently usable for your stated needs. :-) > > I wrote up two relatively simple Lightroom negative to positive conversion > methods for another list just the other day.. Copied from there: > >> You can convert negative to positive in LR, it just takes some effort. Two >> ways to do it: >> >> 1: >> - Import raw exposures. >> - Select a frame. >> - Go to Develop module. >> - Open Tone Curve panel. >> - Click to the point curve option. >> - Grab the White end of the slider and pull it to the bottom. >> - Grab the Black end of the slider and pull it to the top. >> - Adjust white point and black point with the sliders and the curve with >> added points.* >> >> * Note that the sense of dark and light tones will be inverted in the UI >> which can make fine adjustment difficult, both in the tone curve and in >> other adjustment controls. The next step deals with this. >> >> - When you get roughly close, Export to the same location and auto-import a >> positive 16-bit TIFF file for finish rendering work. >> >> 2: >> - Import raw exposures >> - Use the DNG Profile Editor application to create a camera calibration >> profile (CCP) that reverses the tone curve and install it into Lightroom >> (one time per camera). >> - Install the CCP and restart Lightroom. >> - Select the raw exposures. >> - Go to Develop module. >> - Select all the exposures you want to invert from that camera. >> - Choose the inversion DNG profile in the Camera Calibration panel. >> - Rough in an edit, and output to TIFF for finish rendering as above. >> >> For Color negs, you have to add the steps needed to eliminate the orange >> crossover mask, which I do before reversing the tonal curve using the color >> temperature dropper, or in the DNG Profile Editor for reversal CCPs. > > Method 1 is what I use most of the time … I have LR presets set up to do the > basic adjustments for Olympus E-1, E-M1; Leica SL, M-P 240, M-D 262, CL; and > Hasselblad 907x cameras now. I've also created custom CCPs for a couple of > those cameras that do the inversion as well, but I find the inverted Tone > Curve method is generally easier to deal with (at least for B&W … I have very > very little color neg that I want to scan). > > I don't know whether this works on the version of Lightroom that runs on iOS > or iPadOS … I've never used that. I run Lightroom Classic on macOS Catalina > at present. > > G > > >> On Apr 18, 2020, at 8:26 AM, Bob Pdml <[email protected]> wrote: >> >> The light-pad I ordered arrived about an hour ok, so I made my first >> investigative foray into shooting negatives and slides with my M typ262, >> 50mm Summicron lens and the BOOWU-M copy stand. >> >> I shot some Kodachrome 25, Scala, colour neg and BW neg, all with the stand >> at the A4 setting. Some of these were in their sleeve, some I took out. None >> of them had glass on top to flatten them. That is something I need to get. >> >> Out of curiosity I also shot one K25 slide, from France in 1979, at the A6 >> setting, cropped it in LR and auto-adjusted. >> >> https://adobe.ly/2KfnGOv >> >> I’m quite pleased with the results. They do what I wanted, which was to find >> a quick way of making an index ‘contact’ print of a whole roll. I can >> catalogue it in LR and file the slides and negs in a way that makes things >> findable when I want to do a better scan of some of them, for family and >> friends. It also makes them reasonably browsable, so I can see what I have >> after over 40 years of photography. >> >> This set-up won’t work for high quality individual scans because A6 is the >> smallest 1:1 it can do. But there are plenty of ways to scan individual >> frames, including my Nikon LS4000 if necessary. >> >> I don’t know how to invert the negatives in LR on my iPad or iPhone, and I >> don’t have a windows machine at the moment, but that’s quite minor - if >> anyone does know, please spill the beans. > > > > -- > PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List > [email protected] > http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net > to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow > the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List [email protected] http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
