Glad to help out! 

Removal of the crossover mask is probably the most vexing part of working with 
color negative processing because it varies by the type of film, the particular 
way a film was processed, and the age of the film as well. I remember from 
working in the photofinishing lab … it was no better then, a skilled print 
machine operator simply looked at the film and knew how much to tweak the 
reference settings based on the experience of having down a few thousand 
frames. 

In this album on flickr - https://www.flickr.com/gp/gdgphoto/QJ437u - I show a 
simplistic capture setup with a random B&W negative and then another capture of 
a random color negative. I used the White Balance dropper on the film rebate 
between frames to neutralize the crossover mask and then tweaked it further in 
the finish rendered image. This particular film had a relatively light 
crossover mask; other films have much deeper hue'ed crossover masks. 

I don't know that a reference gray/color target is going to give much better 
information than just using the rebate of the film unless it was made at the 
same time as the original images on that same film. It's always just a rough 
starting point for my image processing. There's as much feel and art to this as 
there is science IMO, because we all tend to perceive color slightly 
differently and what is too cool for one person is often just right for 
another. Unless you're working with specific colormetric type materials and 
needs… forensic and science data, for instance. 

For that example photo, I found that the crossover mask removal was reasonable 
and technically about right, but that the resultant image felt a little dull 
and cool, so I then warmed it up with a shift in the color temperature and hue 
controls, poked at the contrast a touch. 

G

> On Apr 19, 2020, at 12:18 PM, Bob Pdml <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> Thanks Godfrey, that’s very helpful and I’ll experiment with your methods. 
> I’ve already discovered dragging the tone curves; the orange mask is a bit 
> problematic at the moment.
> 
> It occurs to me that if I were to shoot a slide each of a colour target and a 
> grey card under daylight (my lightbox is 5000K), and include them on each 
> colour index print, it might help in some way. Or I might just be 
> overcomplicating something that only needs to be good enough, not perfect.
> [… snip …]


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