Hi Jin If you are going to Stoneligh, could you find me please and we can discuss this further. I have a couple of ideas but it is tricky to describe here, plus your reactions might mean modifications to my thoughts. I am there all day on Sunday
Eddie On Apr 25, 12:13 pm, jin <[email protected]> wrote: > Eddie, thank you very much for your long and informative reply and > taking the time to offer advice not just on my issue but improving the > car ingeneral. > > Jim is correct in identifying my source of concern in this area as > being that of the front sill pockets, mine are not sealed at all since > a previous owner had pulled them out to put some wiring in there, I > will be making new panels tomorrow since these look a bit tatty and > want to get some sort of resin / filler into the void to bring up the > level to that of the drain hole in the A post, like Jim says I cant > bear the thought of water contacting the sill. > > On that note its funny that you (Eddie) mention the sill structure in > general as this is also an area of concern of mine, ive read the odd > horror story on here about the sills filling with water so I want to > be able to seal it off from the elements, at the moment water can get > in through the filler neck and filler neck seal under the inner sill, > the rear speaker mounts and the rear seatbelt reel holes, ok so its > unlikely unless you get caught in a rainstorm badly or are very > careless with the hosepipe, but I would like a foolproof solution (I > need one loll). > > My desire is to mimic the aforementioned sealed pocket at the front > but to the rear, by building up the level of the lowest point of the > rear sill cavity with low pressure latex expanding foam, which I > already have, and possibly fill the cavity to the side of the sill > which forms part of the side profile with it too but im not sure yet, > with the rear end filled in as high as possible (ive already put a > captive plate with welded nuts on inside for the trailing arms) I > could then coat over the surface with resin and blend it into the > portion of the rear inner sill that is already glassed into the top of > the sill then drill a drain hole to mirror that of the front sill > pocket, this would stop any water leaking in and sitting in the base > of the sill section (outside the steel sill beam) and running along > the side of the beam causing it to rust and delaminate from the > fibreglass outer skin. I understand it’s a risk and a big undertaking > but I just don’t fancy having rusty sills that are irreplaceable > > Any thought much appreciated > > Regards > > On Apr 25, 12:22 am, Eddie <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > Hi Jim > > > Ok, thanks for that. I just happen to have a spare 2+2 hanging around > > in the garage, so I will take a close look at this tomorrow to see if > > I can spot the problem. > > > Stand by, might have more questions yet. > > > Eddie > > > On Apr 24, 7:07 pm, Jim Hearne <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > Hi Eddie, > > > I'm sure Jin has the same problem as i've found on all 3 of the 2+2's > > > i've worked on. > > > The rubber compound sealing the "pocket" area behind the bottom of the > > > door post isn't total and the water gets out of this area (where it > > > supposed to sit as the drain hole is 3 or 4 cm above the bottom) and > > > leaks out around the sill to body fibreglassing into the car. > > > It probably gets into contact with the steel sill on the way so isn't a > > > good thing. > > > What Jim wants to do is as I've done before, fill up the pocket section > > > with something (I've used potting compound as i had access to it from > > > work) so the top surface is now level with the drain hole. > > > This stops the water leaking out into the car and also stops a puddle of > > > it sitting inside the car. > > > > Jim > > > > On 24/04/2011 09:06, Eddie wrote: > > > > > Hi Jin > > > > > I am glad I asked now, as I was expecting you to say that you had an > > > > H4 with this type of problem. > > > > > Are you totally confident that the leak is through the door hinge > > > > openings? Is there water down in the sill. Water may be collecting in > > > > the sill. Put your hand through the openings in the kick panel and see > > > > if you can find water. > > > > > Have you checked the heater matrix, also have you checked if water is > > > > comming through the bonnett slam panel. Mastic around there helps, but > > > > if water gets in through the join between the metal panel where the > > > > latch is mounted on the bulkhead, it will end up in the front > > > > footwells from the heater box. > > > > > You do not confirm if you have a soft top or hard top on when > > > > cleaning. For soft top, inspect for how well it seals aginst glass and > > > > body. Check for any damage to the roof especially around the front of > > > > the hood where it butts up against the header rail. For Hard Top, > > > > check the seals where the door glass shits against it and again check > > > > the header rail join area. > > > > > It is a long shot, but check the windscreen seal, but in al honesty I > > > > would be surprised if this was causing problems. > > > > > Check to see, if there are any drain holes under the sills and if they > > > > are clear. ( I have just worked on an H4 that was leaking to find NO > > > > drain holes in the ails at the front) > > > > > I would definately NOT recommend filling the sills with anything, you > > > > may cause more problems and it would be an extremely expensive > > > > exercise to get whatever you put in there back out. You are also > > > > right, that using to much resin can cause heat build up. Just to > > > > clarify that for you, when I make a 2+2 bonett, the exothermic heat > > > > build up during the lay up process will make it hard to keep your hand > > > > on the outside of the mould and that mould is approx 10mm thick. You > > > > don't want that in the sill. > > > > > If you are still not sure what to do, contact me at Dynamic Mouldings > > > > on01454 222 899and we can discuss it further, or bring it down and I > > > > can take a look. > > > > > I will be at Stoneligh on the Sunday if you wish to show me the car > > > > there. > > > > > Eddie > > > > > On Apr 24, 7:03 am, jin<[email protected]> wrote: > > > >> cheers mate, its a 2+2, i dont recall the chassis number but its from > > > >> 1995 > > > > >> cheers for any help > > > > >> On Apr 23, 11:17 pm, Eddie<[email protected]> wrote: > > > > >>> Hi Jin > > > >>> Can you tell me which Quantum you have please. > > > >>> It might effect my reply to your problem > > > >>> Thanks > > > >>> Eddie > > > >>> On Apr 23, 8:39 am, jin<[email protected]> wrote: > > > >>>> hi all, I need to do the modification to the front inner wing panel > > > >>>> to > > > >>>> stop my footwalls filling with water when I wash the car, ive looked > > > >>>> for potting compound but cant find any at a reasonable cost, I have > > > >>>> found this stuff though > > > >>>>http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1Kg-General-Casting-Resin-Hardener-Syringe-/230... > > > >>>> fibreglass casting resin, will it be safe to pour into the cavity > > > >>>> below the front door hinges or will it react / swell / crack the grip > > > >>>> from the inside? > > > >>>> I think ive heard that putting too much resin onto fibreglass causes > > > >>>> it to heat up and warp but im not sure if this is the same stuff? > > > >>>> Any help much appreciated- Hide quoted text - > > > >>> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - > > > - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Quantum Owners Group" group. 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