Stainless steel is quite hard on cutting tools as you've found out.
It quickly shows the difference between cheap tools and decent ones.
A good quality step drill should be ok.
The other thing to remember about Stainless Steel is that it work
hardens so if you are drilling it you need to use a decent feed rate
(not drill speed, the rate you push the drill through the work).
Some cutting oil applied with a brush will also help the tools stay
sharp on Stainless.
IMO it's worth the effort though, no need to paint brackets etc to stop
them going rusty.
Jim
On 03/01/2012 22:00, jin wrote:
todays attmpt to make a stainless mounting plate for the choke and
bonnet release cable (18mm hole needed in the plate) resulted in me
destroying my new cone stepped drill at about 13mm, so back to the
drawing board - and tool shop to buy a bi-metal hole saw fingers
crossed
On Jan 2, 9:34 pm, jin<[email protected]> wrote:
nice find
just had a look on that website
what id give for a shop in there.......
On Jan 1, 9:44 pm, "Susan and Martin Scott"
<[email protected]> wrote:
Did an online search for grommets - from a co called 'grommets.co.uk'
various
available to fit thick panels. No prices listed, only on enquiry. Maybe a
bulk order for distribution to club members may be possible?
----- Original Message -----
From: "jin"<[email protected]>
To: "Quantum Owners Group"<[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2012 8:26 PM
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: brake bar question
cheers mate, i like the sound of the rubber sheet sealing method for
the pipes
On Jan 1, 1:36 pm, Jim Hearne<[email protected]> wrote:
For the heater pipes i made up a plate out of thick stainless the same
size as the Ford stamped plate and then sandwiched a bit of thick rubber
sheet between the 2.
The rubber sheet has undersized holes for the pipes so it stretches over
them and seals.
Yes, just Sikaflex or equivalent Polyurethane adhesive.
Jim
On 01/01/2012 11:59, jin wrote:
Thanks both for your replies, I ll go take a look at autosparks
website now, I have bought some landrover grommets also that fit the
2mm thick stainless plate i have to hand,
Jim, thanks for the info, i think ill stick with half the bulkhead
i.e. the driver s side since that s the most busy with holes and
grommets etc., i am going to encompass the heater holes since they
dont look too good and I don t like the standard plate that covers
them, it would be great to find some nice grommets that sealed the
heater tubes to the stainless plate, ill make a localised plate the
same thickness to fit behind the servo to keep the bar level.
Jim, hope you don t mind sharing trade secrets? What did you use to
bond / seal the plate to your bulkhead? sikaflex?
Cheers for the input folks, I m a bit bewildered at the moment about
the sheer volume of work ahead of me at the moment - I ve not even
started to clean up the frame yet.......
On Dec 31 2011, 7:25 pm, "Susan and Martin Scott"
<[email protected]> wrote:
Someone (Kent Trim Supplies?) used to sell grommets suitable for 6mm
thick
panels at the car shows - a very useful item (twice the price of
regular
grommets), but worth the added expense for the agro saved. There are
some
larger grommets available (eg 1.5" dia) (from Auto Sparks?) which will
fit a
thick panel as well.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Hearne"<[email protected]>
To:<[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2011 7:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] brake bar question
I actually made up a stainless plate that filled the entire gap on the
top section of the bulkhead from side to side and down to behind the
smaller spaceframe tube.
This let me mount most of the standard bulkhead grommets into it
instead
of cutting and gluing them.
You may need to open out the hole in the bulkhead behind a little to
clear the rear edge of the flange on the grommet.
I also brazed a replacement clutch cable tube directly onto the plate.
For the grommets that are in other areas of the bulkhead you can make
smaller localise plates to mount the grommets into.
I also made up a sleeve with a flange on it the fix the end of the
heater tube onto the bulkhead.
Jim
also started making a template to make a stainless panel to hose all
the grommets and reinforce the bulkhead as some of the fittings have
dished the
fiberglasshttp://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02344.jpgthankyouin
advance
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