Hey Garth, I have Kool Stop salmon pads in now. Everything on the bike looks set up perfectly with housing and such...it's an original Riv build so I'm assuming it was done expertly.
Rim to pad distance...well, I guess I can't find a really good way to tell how close they *should *be. I know I can use the barrel adjuster to get the pads a little closer...is there such thing as too close as long as the wheel has room to move without rubbing when it flexes while being stressed? While the hassle of tearing up the bars is something I'd like to avoid, I know that at some point I want dark blue Newbaums with clear shellac on this bike. Might as well do it now! Ben On Monday, December 20, 2021 at 11:22:11 AM UTC-6 Garth wrote: > Ben, If you have stock Tektro pads replace them as I've never met one > worth a darn. Any mentioned are fine. Also cable housing end finishes into > the ferrules, is everything flush ? What's the rim to pad distance ? Check > all that before setting out to tear your bars apart ! > > In the real world many people use that brake and find it works well so > don't give up so easily ! > > Never accept as a condition for wheel removal deflating a tire, that'll > grow old real quick. > On Monday, December 20, 2021 at 10:02:43 AM UTC-5 bjmi...@gmail.com wrote: > >> Good morning! >> I picked up a 2013 Sam in late October and LOVE it for a billion >> different reasons. >> >> However...one area where I really prefer my Atlantis is braking. I have >> the Shimano DXR MX70 levers and v-brakes on the Atlantis and I feel like >> the stopping power is incredible. This is my commuter bike, set up with >> chocos for upright riding with lots of stops. >> >> Sam has Shimano Tiagra levers and the Tektro r559 brakes. They just feel >> a million times weaker. I can stop, but it's a much more gradual experience >> than the v-brakes. The braking feels squishy. Like...I pull the levers and >> the pads hit the rims, but I can keep pulling the levers and there's just >> not much that happens in terms of stopping. It's almost as if not enough >> force gets transferred into the pads. >> >> The brakes are set up correctly, slight toe-in, arm that moves up toward >> the rim has pad touching at bottom of braking surface, arm that moves down >> toward rim has pad at top of braking surface. I think they contact the rim >> with the appropriate amount of movement of the lever, too. >> >> I'm about to re-do all cables and housings (even though it kind of kills >> me to undo one of Mark's bar wrap jobs). Any tips on getting a little >> better braking out of this setup, or are the r559s just going to not be as >> good as v-brakes no matter how nicely they're set up? >> >> Thanks for any and all thoughts! >> >> Ben in Omaha >> > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/b14f8075-5bd6-45b8-96df-9dc5071febb1n%40googlegroups.com.
