New thread to avoid my habit of yanking threads off-thread. I'm curious to hear details of the problems you faced, the problems that frustrated you about disk brakes.
I ask because I've found even cable disk brakes, and even *really cheap* cable disk brakes (OEM Tektros or what have you on the Monocog: these were so cheap they didn't even have pad adjusters; the only adjuster was the cables), and even cable disk brakes *pulled by road levers* perfectly ordinary and acceptable. On my Monocog 29er I have Shimano 600 AX lever (short pull, so I read) pulling Road BB7s, and they perform at least as well as most single pivot and centerpull calipers I've used -- more power, poorer modulation. I don't get rubbing, the "feel" is firm, the brakes stop fine; not the crushing power of hydraulics but "fine" -- I can hurt myself with the front brake. Now, when I first used disks on my first 2010 Monocog 29er, I did have problems: very weak (oh, so laughably weak), rubbing, mushy levers; both with MTB BB7s and long-pull drop bar levers, and Road BB7s and standard road levers. But in frustration I researched BB7 setup, and learned a crucial trick: don't attach the cable to the actuation arm when the arm is fully relaxed; move the arm ~1/3 through its travel and attach the cable at that point. Wala; problem solved. Now, with the Road BB7s on the current 2012 Monocog 29er I do find that I often have to mess with caliper positioning (not pad adjustment; re-positioning the entire caliper) when I remove and then replace a wheel; but this is accomplished simply by releasing the caliper mounting bolts, squeezing the lever, and re-tightening. This does not happen every time I remove and replace a wheel, and when it does happen it takes just a minute per caliper/wheel. *And* I use sealant in tubeless tires, so this happens as often as I have to adjust chain tension on the ss drivetrain. And: the hybrid cable/hydraulic TRP HyRds: these are absolutely foolproof; set them up and afterward the only thing you have to do is remember not to squeeze the brake levers with the wheel removed, unless you insert a shim between the pads. Now, I ride in dry, dusty conditions. Very dusty conditions, as 3 or 4 inch silty sand, will occasionally -- "occasionally" -- cause a very faint "whisp-whisp-whisp" sound from pads and rotors, but this goes away once you get to firmer ground and it does not cause any noticeable drag. I have had excruciatingly loud squeal with wet pads but that occurred with a particular pad/rotor combo, and not with others. I'll be interested to hear more about the problems, including a description of the calipers, levers, and whether cable or hydraulic or hybrid. On Sun, Apr 16, 2023 at 9:22 AM ascpgh <[email protected]> wrote: > ... My fifteen year experiment with discs on drop bar, bar end shifter > bikes lead me to spec cantilevers on my custom two years ago. I'll gladly > accept the the variables I know about brakes, braking, parts, pieces, > installation and adjustment over unique, sporadic mystery sounds and > finickiness that are beyond control and lead to throwing new parts into the > system at a rate embarrassing compared to rim brakes. > -- ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Patrick Moore Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/CALuTfgv3FiF6PJOt4vmS7SOTQTjQi%3DOHpY0F-eykLbRpTjn2Ww%40mail.gmail.com.
