Andrew, ITB pain sucks! I'm slowly digging out of my ITB pain cave. I think your cranks may be too long. 175 on a MTB with varied speed and revolutions is different than a constant spin on the road That's what I found out for myself.
What I did: lowered saddle by 3-5mm, moved EXCLUSIVELY to SPDs, moved cleats inward to push shoes out (raising Q) and canted heels in as far as possible. Also stretching, anti-inflammatories, a foam roller and occasionally ice. I went from not being able to do 20 miles to now regularly doing 50<http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/5023469511/>and 60 mile rides. I can still feel pangs of the ITB, so it's not cured, but greatly reduced. As always, YMM significantly V. Hope that helps some! David On Sat, Sep 25, 2010 at 1:03 PM, andrew hill <[email protected]> wrote: > hi folks, > > i'm looking at building up my next Riv in some road-ish configuration for a > fast/light trainer.. this will probably going to be based on a canti-Rom (or > a Roadeo), and i want to make good choices to help alleviate some knee > problems i've had with my Sam Hillborne. > > the Sam has a Sugino XD2 with 175mm cranks, and i experienced some rather > bad ITB pain on the right side starting 60 miles into a century. at the > time i thought it was because i was clipped into the pedals and didn't have > enough float, and while i do think some cleat mis-adjustment might have > contributed, i've continued to have some minor pain in that knee all summer > when doing short rides (6 miles) while using only platforms (after taking > almost 2 months off riding to allow it to heal). > > so i'm wondering if the Q factor and crank length are something i should > change on my next bike. > > some relevant info - i'm 5'11 but with a pbh of 84.5 (rounded *up* a few > mm), so i've got short legs and long torso. in addition, i rode a 19" Gary > Fisher Cobia 29er for the past few years and never experienced even a twinge > of pain doing 12-30 mile rides, and ~ 75+ miles a week with clip-ins; the > Fisher also had 175 cranks, and a Q-factor of 166. I believe the Q on the > SD2's are about the same (165), but i'm not sure what the BB width that came > with the Sam is, so it's possible the Fisher had a larger effective Q...? > > i'd like to go back to SPD clip-ins, as i never had a problem before my > century ride last june, and based on some recent threads on this list, i'm > planning on going with a shorter crank.. i'm thinking 170mm, as i doubt > 172.5 will make much of a difference (but i'd love to hear dissenting > opinions). > > also - anyone know how "typical" the Q the Sam with stock BB and SD2 is? > any advice on how to minimize ITB issues when setting up a Riv in a road-ish > fashion? i'm assuming i DONT want to go for a compact double with narrow Q, > but might want to get a wider BB or a set of cranks with a larger tread. > > thanks, > andrew > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]<rbw-owners-bunch%[email protected]> > . > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA *...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would probably benefit more from improving their taste than from improving their performance.* - RTMS -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
