In a message dated 11/3/2011 6:49:37 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, [email protected] writes:
What I'm wondering though is would it be cost effective to purchase a 1/35 or 1/16 model and have 1 piece of each running gear and 1 track link 3d scanned, then enlarge it in our own 3d programs and have the masters 3d printed. Then Frank can do his magic with the molding process? John as i don't know how much scans would be so i can't say cost wise how it'll be cost effective in the end as it might just put you out price wise. but since you do your own 3-D stuff, it should bring the prince down. as for casting some of these parts, i was looking to do the tracks and sprockets for the Tiger before i did the current tracks but the consensus was that the track links would end up stretching and the sprocket wheels wouldn't hold up. but if your still willing to try resin tracks and sprockets such as on the real tank, then you'll need to change resins to something stronger such as a task-3 (pretty sure that's what i used, i'll have to look), and pressure cast the parts, and at that point, you'd have to also vacuum the rubber as when you pressure cast, any air bubble left in the rubber will end up give you a pickle effect once those air bubbles in the mold collapse. another thing, for the track links, i'd cast in some small sections of brass tubing to work as bearings between the pin and the link otherwise your pin will start to wear on the resin. but if they were cast in metal.......... and as for my mold not being done right causing it to rip, it was done right, but it wasn't for tracks (i forget what it was, as it happened a while ago). Chris, _Odyssey Slipways_ (http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html) -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
