I can assemble the 3d parts on the computer before anything tangible is ever 
produced

Scans and models can be tweeked to make them fit/work

Jason
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-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected]
Sender: [email protected]
Date: Fri, 04 Nov 2011 12:18:16 
To: <[email protected]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Re: [TANKS] 3-D printing

Wow there is a lot of talent out there, I never realized all the hidden skills 
you guys have.  So with that in mind I have a few rookie questions in regards 
to our 3d printing process in development of parts and what is possible.  :)
 
Ok, so the two methods being discussed now are building the parts yourself in 
3d and having them printed v. taking a small scale model, having the parts 
scanned in 3d and bringing in to our own software, enlarging it and having a 
master printed in 3d.  Then Fanks molding process into a final usable piece.  
 
What I'm wondering is how to test the accuracy of the model you make to 
determine if its ready to be printed?  A static part like a tank jack providing 
its scaled correctly is not a worry.  But when you model a couple tracks to fit 
on a certain sprocket, wheel, idler, how can it be determined that it actually 
fits properly and works before you spend the bucks to have it printed only to 
find out you goofed up on your model?  Are models from the box to be trusted 
also to spend the money to have them scanned and printed?    If for instance a 
tank track is printed in 3d and doesn't quite fit the teeth on the sprocket, 
can it be manhandled and corrected manually to make it work or would the 
printing process have to be repeated?  
 
Sorry for all the questions, I'm really interested in figuring out this process.
 
Kind regards,
John
 
  
 
 
On 11/04/11, [email protected] wrote:

I do 3-d modeling at work using solidworks , have the software at home as well


----------------
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, November 4, 2011 8:29:44 AM
Subject: Re: Re: [TANKS] 3-D printing



Hi Charlie, thank you for your reply.  Yes that's exactly the process I was 
thinking about.  I would love to get 1 sprocket, 1 of each type wheel, 1 idler, 
1 track link and perhaps a couple pieces of the suspension parts scanned if 
Todd would be interested in doing it.   And maybe a couple more pieces that I'm 
neglecting to think about right now.   This is totally uncharted territory for 
me so I'm not sure how small a part he would need to start with.  Plus I will 
need to bring the small scale model to the shop first and bother Frank and the 
guys to see if all the parts fit together properly and would actually roll.  It 
would be great if he could scan pieces of a 1/35 scale model and get a good 
quality scan.  Then we can scale it up to 1/6th and have it printed.  
 
I consider this a unique and unusual project, it's in preparation for my next 
tank after finishing the KT, a 1/6 scale Maus.  Just figured it would be good 
to start getting parts together for it over the winter.  :)   
 
 Kind regards,
John
On 11/03/11, Charlie Mann<[email protected]> wrote: 
I've got a friend with free access to a 3-D scanner, and he's also pretty good 
with making 3-D CAD models, then printing them at Shapeways. It sounds like you 
want to scan an object, then blow it up, basically the opposite of this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l1Xk91zXsX4Todd is pretty busy, but is always 
interested in unique and unusual projects. If you've got a few parts to scan, 
perhaps we can ask Todd if he's got time to work on them. The real expense 
would be 3-D printing the masters, then the cost of silicone and the resin for 
the reproductions. Even with using mold release, eventually silicone molds wear 
out and rip. That's why you preserve the master and make multiple 
molds.CharlieOn 11/3/11 10:27 AM, [email protected] wrote: In a message 
dated 11/3/2011 6:49:37 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, [email protected] 
writes:What I'm wondering though is would it be cost effective to purchase a 
1/35 or 1/16 model and have 1 piece of each running gear and 1 track link 3d 
scanned, then enlarge it in our own 3d programs and have the masters 3d 
printed.&nbsp; Then Frank can do his magic with the molding 
process?&nbsp;John&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;as i don't know how much scans would be so 
i can't say cost wise how it'll be cost effective in the end as it might just 
put you out price wise. but since you do your own&nbsp;3-D stuff, it should 
bring the prince down.&nbsp;as for casting some of these parts, i was looking 
to do the tracks and sprockets for the Tiger before i did the current tracks 
but the consensus was that the track links would end up stretching and the 
sprocket wheels wouldn't hold up. &nbsp;but if your still willing to try resin 
tracks and sprockets such as on the real tank, then you'll need to change 
resins to something stronger such as a task-3 (pretty sure that's what i used, 
i'll have to look), and pressure cast the parts, and at that point, you'd have 
to also vacuum the rubber as when you pressure cast, any air bubble left in the 
rubber will end up give you a pickle effect once those air bubbles in the mold 
collapse.&nbsp;another thing, for the track links, i'd cast in some small 
sections of brass tubing to work as bearings between the pin and the 
link&nbsp;otherwise your pin will start to wear on the resin.&nbsp;but if they 
were cast in metal..........&nbsp;and as for my mold not being done right 
causing it to rip, it was done right, but it wasn't for tracks (i forget what 
it was, as it happened a while ago).&nbsp;Chris,Odyssey Slipways-- You are 
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